Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I've been gettin some strange rattling type noises with my car every now and then and I believe one of me HICAS electronic components is faulty.

I'd say its part of the HICAS eletronic components because when these rattling noises happens, my HICAS sensor fault light comes on and will remain on until the car is turned off.

This problem has been occuring infrequently and is gettin annoying.. Does anyone have any idea on where I can get this checked out? as I aint very mechanically minded. Or even better if anyone here knows what to/how to check that would be awesome. :cheers:

My car is under the top warranty cover from some warranty place (part of the purchase of me car) so any proper repairs and stuff will be covered under warrant..

Oh if a place is recommended, then please try to recommend one on the gold coast.. :(

Thanks..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44377-hicas-diagnostics/
Share on other sites

Your diff and or ABS braking is on the way out.

:D

Don't know who told you that but the hicas system has nothing at all to do with the ABS or the diff at all....

There is a diagnostic check that you can perform on your own car and it will tell you exactly what's wrong with the system.

You don't have to be that mechanically minded to do the test and the best thing is it won't cost you anything to find exactly whats wrong.

Just make sure the power steering reservoir is on the full mark on the dip-stick as this will make the hicas light come on and the diagnostics won't find this.

Diagnostics found here:

http://www.overflow.250x.com/diagnostics.htm

When attempting to do diagnostics be patient as it might not work the first time, but it will work if you keep at it.

MEGA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44377-hicas-diagnostics/#findComment-908675
Share on other sites

you COULD do a HICAS diagnostic...

This is the sequence that got me into it. After trying a million times and nearly wearing out my steering wheel and brake pedal :rofl:  

(1)Turn ignition switch off

(2)Set shift lever to P or N (auto) or neutral position (man)

(3)Turn ignition switch ON

(4)immediately start engine

(5)Turn steering wheel LEFT TO RIGHT at least 20 degrees from central position 5 times or more. remember, LEFT TO RIGHT = 1 movement.. repeat 5 times  

(6)then immediatly after this press the brake pedal 5 times.

now here's the bit i'd never read before... DO ALL THIS WITHIN 10 SECONDS OF STARTING THE CAR ie go like an escaped mental patient

This is the first stage of diagnostic mode. raise the rev's of the car to 2000rpm and turn the steering wheel 180 degrees left or right and the rear wheels will move that magical 1 or so degree in relation to the steering wheel.

To go further into diagnostic mode...

(1)Depress and release brake pedal

(2)turn steering wheel left to right again at 20 degree+ movements

(3)(man)depress clutch pedal move gear lever to any pos. except neutral, then return to neutral and release clutch pedal

(auto) disengage parking brake lever, move lever to anything but park or neutral,  then return to park.

(4) drive car at least 3 meters forward at a speed of at least 2km/h, but not over 30km/h.

that should put the hicas into full diagnostic mode.  just interpret the hicas light outputs with those on grahams hicas section.

:rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44377-hicas-diagnostics/#findComment-910639
Share on other sites

When there is a problem with diff or ABS, especially ABS, the HICAS light will come on...

No... Sorry but the ABS system has it's own warning light, a yellow one, if there is some thing wrong with the ABS system (ie wheel speed sensors, ABS module etc) this light will come on, ABS on a GTS-t is rare as it was an optional thing, but on the 4wd models like the GTR or GTS4 they almost all have it unless it was removed as they already have the individual wheel speed sensors on the front wheels so they got the ABS as standard equipment.

The Hicas system doesn't have anything to do with the diff, sometimes the breather on the diff gets blocked open with dirt but there is nothing attached to the diff to trigger a warning light at all.

Hey Funky I have alread posted a link ot the hicas diagnostics in an earlier post, but yeah your right they must have missed it if you did.

MEGA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44377-hicas-diagnostics/#findComment-912077
Share on other sites

Ok guys.. sorry I left out a very important information.. that is mine is a triptronic R34 , all the diagnostic seems to be directed to R33 or 32s. :)

Its played again over the weekend, I spoke to my mechanic and he advised that I will need to do a "data streaming" to find out what exactly is the fault, as the problem comes and go... Over the last weekend it got a lil bit silly, but fine yesterday.. :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44377-hicas-diagnostics/#findComment-912674
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...