Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah pretty much what i thought looks discoloured prob due to heat, if the clutch has been treated hard it wasn't from me (previous owner) only strange thing I noticed was there would be a shudder pretty much every time I take off from a standstill no matter how I would let the clutch out be it riding it or gentle throttle or rev n dump always a momentary shudder I just assumed it was in the diff. Anyways thanks for the replies guys heads at the machine shop so I'll give it to him to machine the surface and convince the misses a nismo Coppermix is the only solution to this problem.

The heat has probably just altered the material on the clutch plate a bit so it doesnt grip quite as well. No big deal seen as you know where to go from here. Consider an NPC clutch and flywheel as they are both great products. The clutch you have now looks like its only a 9.5", you can go NPC 10" which means it will handle the power and still be relatively soft pedal feel.

Had this car had the clutch replaced not too long ago?

Flywheel appears to have fresh grinding marks on the area not exposed to the driven plate.

The marks look like the wheel wasn't machined on a lathe, it was done of a surface grinder and I haven't seen a wheel done by that method for a long time.

May explain your jumpy clutch.

My clutch is never done on a lathe, and I dont know anyone who does this with a lathe

Forget the name of the machine mine is done with but you end up with what look like big swirls through it but I have never had a clutch problem. It's the proper machine for doing it

20131120_135043_zpstlb27war.jpg

Edited by 89CAL

Well apparently rebuilt box and new clutch about a year before I bought it. I've been lucky to have put 5k kms on it But who really knows. I thought buying a nice clean stock car would mean leaving it alone so I can play with the other car but all it's done is make he garage look even busier. Thanks for the replys guys.

Here's a pic of plate and clutch for interests sakepost-3493-14020214248945_thumb.jpgpost-3493-14020214497259_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...