Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry man. I can't see anything except all that white paint on the dashboard. <shudder>.

Max boost is obtained when you don't connect the wastegate to the boost source at all. Of course you should block the pipe coming from the boost source to plug the leak - but the wastegate line could be left flapping in the breeze.

BEWARE that this is massively dangerous. You will be running uncontrolled boost, it could very easily spin the turbo fast enough to spit the turbine off. SO IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED.

I myself have done it, but you have to be massively sensitive and careful with the throttle. Basically what you're looking for is proof that if the wastegate has no signal to it, then the boost can go way higher than you would like it.

I still reckon your problem is in your plumbing. Go back to post #17. If you have a boost control system using the factory solenoid which is regulating a bleed, then you simply MUST have a restrictor in the right place or you will do nothing to the boost signal and will only get wastegate pressure - which appears to be what you have.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry man. I can't see anything except all that white paint on the dashboard. <shudder>.

Max boost is obtained when you don't connect the wastegate to the boost source at all. Of course you should block the pipe coming from the boost source to plug the leak - but the wastegate line could be left flapping in the breeze.

BEWARE that this is massively dangerous. You will be running uncontrolled boost, it could very easily spin the turbo fast enough to spit the turbine off. SO IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED.

I myself have done it, but you have to be massively sensitive and careful with the throttle. Basically what you're looking for is proof that if the wastegate has no signal to it, then the boost can go way higher than you would like it.

I still reckon your problem is in your plumbing. Go back to post #17. If you have a boost control system using the factory solenoid which is regulating a bleed, then you simply MUST have a restrictor in the right place or you will do nothing to the boost signal and will only get wastegate pressure - which appears to be what you have.

Thanks! will try and see how it works. I think i'll have some time over at work later today, i'll see if i can get the EBC to work as it should.

However, i use this

ake9mt.jpg

And the solenoid only have a IN and a OUT connection. So my question is, how do i connect it the right way? Do i need a T? or should i just connect the intercooler pipe to the IN port and the OUT port to the wastegate?.

Thanks for the fast answer btw :)

no T piece...

pressure (from intercooler, pre-throttle body) goes into IN, the OUT then goes into your actuator.

Rip everything else out, and block that nipple on your intake pipe.

no T piece...

pressure (from intercooler, pre-throttle body) goes into IN, the OUT then goes into your actuator.

Rip everything else out, and block that nipple on your intake pipe.

Thanks, will try it out later today :).

I'll be back too keep you updated!

AVCR? I think that vents internally. So you just connect the in to the boost source and the out to the wastegate. No tees, no restrictors, no messing about. Find a manual for that model of AVCR and check out the connection diagrams. I just installed an older Profec and had to source the proper manual just to make sure I didn't make any silly mistakes. Do some googling.

Hello again, i tried my AVC-R and it still doesn't work.. (connected the solenoid between the intercooler pipe and the wastegate). However, there is a hose coming from the avc-r.. should it be connected to this?.

28u1lid.jpg

And here is a pic of the solenoid

2exa5mr.jpg

Gonna try my mechanical boost controller tomorrow if i have time. Btw, shouldn't the ebc solenoid make a clicking sound?.

Thanks :).

Get rid rid of that bov.

Yes the solenoid makes a clicking sound when trying to control boost . Which it only does when out of vacuum so it's not clicking all the time.

You can apply pressure via a bike pump to ebc pressure source to see if it does anything.

Get rid rid of that bov.

Yes the solenoid makes a clicking sound when trying to control boost . Which it only does when out of vacuum so it's not clicking all the time.

You can apply pressure via a bike pump to ebc pressure source to see if it does anything.

Will do it tomorrow and try it again. Had the stock one plugged in before and it still acted like this. But going to try to go back to so much stock as possible, so i can find out where the problem is.

Ah, haven't heard it clicked once.. is there any way to find out if it really works as it should? maybe try to connect the + and - to a battery? or is it a bad idea?.

Cheers for the fast answer thou :)

Get rid rid of that bov.

Yes the solenoid makes a clicking sound when trying to control boost . Which it only does when out of vacuum so it's not clicking all the time.

You can apply pressure via a bike pump to ebc pressure source to see if it does anything.

Will do it tomorrow and try it again. Had the stock one plugged in before and it still acted like this. But going to try to go back to so much stock as possible, so i can find out where the problem is.

Ah, haven't heard it clicked once.. is there any way to find out if it really works as it should? maybe try to connect the + and - to a battery? or is it a bad idea?.

Cheers for the fast answer thou :)

Will do it tomorrow and try it again. Had the stock one plugged in before and it still acted like this. But going to try to go back to so much stock as possible, so i can find out where the problem is.

Ah, haven't heard it clicked once.. is there any way to find out if it really works as it should? maybe try to connect the + and - to a battery? or is it a bad idea?.

Cheers for the fast answer thou :)

Get rid rid of that bov.

Yes the solenoid makes a clicking sound when trying to control boost . Which it only does when out of vacuum so it's not clicking all the time.

You can apply pressure via a bike pump to ebc pressure source to see if it does anything.

Will do it tomorrow and try it again. Had the stock one plugged in before and it still acted like this. But going to try to go back to so much stock as possible, so i can find out where the problem is.

Ah, haven't heard it clicked once.. is there any way to find out if it really works as it should? maybe try to connect the + and - to a battery? or is it a bad idea?.

Will try the bike pump method aswell!.

Cheers for the fast answer thou :)

It's extremely likely your stock bov is leaking due to the way it's hose is blocked.

It needs the boost pressure in the top of the diaphragm to hold it shut when on boost . The spring on its own isn't strong enough to hold it shut against the boost pressure.

Connecting direct to the battery is fine.

But you might as well do what I said with the pump to check the whole ebc at the same time.

Oops, forum lagged out i think?. Tried to send the post but nothing happend and now it all showed up :P soz for that!.

Yeah, got help from my brother a year ago or so when we plugged it in the first time. Gonna check over those things and then i'll try again :).

I'll be back with how it went. Thanks alot guys, i appreciate all the help :).

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...