Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've recently had some work done to my r32 gtr, (larger injectors, boost increase, adjusted cams) and have had a retune (nistune).

I've driven the car and competed in a hill climb, and all is well, however all of a sudden was unable to start the car.

After investigating- turns out the injectors are high impedance not low (was advertised as direct replacement - I guess that doesn't mean anything!). I've now removed the resistor and it's now running again.

So my long winded question is - would it need to be retuned now the injectors are getting correct ohms/power?

Or doesn't it make a difference? Was strange how it was running well for a week....

This is weird. I wired a power fc for a gtr to work in a gtst. I got it and it all worked good. Of course I had no vtc. What I learned was that all rb ecu wants to see a high impedance resistance. The rb25 are high impudence injectors and the gtr rb26 are low but the gtr has a resistor pack to boost the low impedance injectors to a high ohm reading. So in short all ecu's wants to see high impedance signal. I really think nissan thought peopel wouldn't get this. Lol. If you have high impedance injectors on a rb26 ecu.?? Just get rid of the resistor pack (rewire) it and you will be ok. From a resistance stand point.

Edited by MJTru

Um....Marcus....that's exactly what he said and did.

OP.......Yes, retune. The opening behaviour of the injectors will be different without the resistor - effectively the latency will probably be changed the most - so it will affect light load mixtures more than high load, but still worrth doing.

Awesome - thanks for the help guys.

Such a pain in the backside - as it only just came back from the tuner!

So are the injectors slower to open? I'd hate to be driving it running too lean...

Um....Marcus....that's exactly what he said and did.

OP.......Yes, retune. The opening behaviour of the injectors will be different without the resistor - effectively the latency will probably be changed the most - so it will affect light load mixtures more than high load, but still worrth doing.

Yes GTSBoy I agree thats what he was saying. I may have missed somthing tho. A rule of thumb for me is. Any mods to fuel or air should be mapped and retuned. Intresting info GTSBoy as I never thought it would affect the injectors the way you mentioned it. I will be looking into this. Also intresting to know it would make more difference in the down low area. Hmmmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...