Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it ok if some coolant gets inside your engine block? Maybe around 50-100ml total? Because the neo engines have coolant lines right above the coilpacks and when you remove the hoses it leaks into the chamber a bit. When I remove the plug the coolant drains into the block. The car then pours out white smoke from the exhaust for a few minutes. Could a little coolant do much to the block or does it just burn off?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446387-coolant-in-engine-block/
Share on other sites

That's a bad idea.

Could hydraulic lock the engine if too much gets in.

The normal thing to do would be to blow or suck the coolant and other random chunks of shit out before removing the plugs.

And what coolant line are you even talking about?

Remove the plugs, let the water drain in and crank it with the plugs removed, it will spit all the water back out, common method used on water logged engines, after a few seconds of cranking all the water will be kicked out.

Never put the plug back in with water inside, nice way to bend a rod or make a hole in the side of the block if the rod snaps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...