Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i'm currently living in the uk and thinking about briging a car back to Aus when i eventually come home as a personal import.

I can pick up an 04 - 05 mazda rx8 over here for about $3000aud, I know i'll need to have owned it for 12 months before being able to apply to bring it back, but what would rough prices be for shipping, duty's, application fee's etc..?

and yes ive searched already, can't find any threads on the matter that arn't rediculously outdated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447072-personal-import-from-uk/
Share on other sites

...when I eventually come home as a personal import.

...

Don't you just have to walk through customs? jk

And if you're bringing a car back to Oz, have you researched how much the RX8s of 2004 are worth here? If your budget can be stretched, can Middlehurst Nissan at St Helens source a rare BNR34 for you to bring back? Or through the net? For instance a M-Spec Nur can attract $85K plus over here.

Iron Lady Imports can advise you on bringing your car back from England - aka Iron Chef here. Top Secret Imports here in Oz can also help you.

Hope this helps...

I have been importing cars to Australia professionally for more than 15 years and currently specialise in Personal Imports just like this with more experience at this process than anyone else in the world, so I can easily help you with all of the information you need as well as actually being able to help with the process when the time comes. The costs you will be looking at are likely to change a little between now and 12-18 months time but I can give you a ballpark idea of costs now, then you can get in touch closer to the time to go over costs again at the rates relevant then.

First up is the Australian Vehicle Import Approval fee which is currently $50, then once you have that shipping from the port in the UK (usually Southampton but others are possible) to Australia. Most ports excluding Adelaide should cost around GBP £700 to £900 for the freight and export customs. Once it lands here in Australia you are up for around $1500 in import customs clearance, Quarantine fees, port fees and various other minor costs all rolled into one. Import duty will be 5% and GST at 10% but as you will have owned the car for more than a year it will be based on an approved customs valuation upon arrival in Australia, this will not be the Australian market value or the UK value but somewhere in between. This valuation is something that I would arrange at the lowest reasonable rate as part of my service, and at the current valuation you should expect import duty and GST to be around $540 all up and this should drop a little over the next 12-18 months.

The next stages are for compliance/engineer certificate and other applicable requirements depending on which state you are taking the car into, but assuming QLD as an example then it might be somewhere around $600 for compliance/engineer, $130 for roadworthy certificate, $620 for registration costs and around $215 for stamp duty. These requirements and costs vary between states but I can advise costs and assist with the process the same in all states.

Hopefully this helps you understand what is involved. If you want to know any more then please feel free to message me on here or call/text message me on 0414 502 250

cheers for the help guys, while not cheap it does seem worthwhile if i find the right car to bring back.

the car will be going to melbourne so i'll definintely get in contact with you kakimoto33 when the time eventually comes

as much as i would love to bring a gtr back they're way out of my price range at the moment, and whatever i do get will be a daily for the next year or 2 so the compulsory insurance price on an international license would be rediculous as well, if possible at all :(

having a look around at cars there seems to be a massive price difference between the uk and aus on s2000's aswell i have found, so might have a look at a few of those as well :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...