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Selling the following, no longer needed.

Platinum Sport 2000 Autospec Flying Lead Kit Short

Info can be found on the Haltech website.

I also have a number of pins so if you have half a brain and a bit of spare time, you can build your own loom using nice mil spec wiring.

Asking $1850 firm

Smart wire Kit - 30 Output Channels in Total with Switch Panel and Connection Cable

Info can be found on the Racepak website.

It basically replaces your big and ugly engine relay and fuse box with a nice neat little box.

Asking $2300 firm

If you think my prices are unreasonable then please provide links to the same item advertised elsewhere for a lesser amount - if you're unable to do this then keep your opinion to yourself.

Pick up welcome from Robina area on the Gold Coast.

Buyer pays postage.

Direct deposit / cash on pick up only..

Pics if required but they look the same if you were to look them up with google images.

Thanks.

Pictures;

IMG_2319Custom_zps1c976c8c.jpg

IMG_2321Custom_zpsb2a6929c.jpg

IMG_2320Custom_zps9d7804fa.jpg

Haltech stuff - previous buyer for the sensors fell through so they are still available and consist of;

1 x Air temp sensor ($45 from haltech)

1 x Water temp sensor ($45 from haltech)

1 x ECU mounting kit ($15 from haltech)

2 x 150 PSI oil / fuel pressure sensors ($249 each from haltech)

1 x AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor ($180 delivered from USA)

1 x Idle air control motor ($109 from haltech)

1 x Idle air control housing ($119 from haltech)

Over $800 in sensors and accessories alone!

New price with sensors and accessories will be $2350

If you have an issue with the price then please provide links for the same item advertised elsewhere for less - otherwise keep your comments to yourself.

Racepak Smartwire - Same as what's used on the ETS Drift Car

IMG_2322Custom_zpsc7ac0044.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

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    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
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