Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 gtr windscreens front and rear $400 each, genuine.

rear quarter windows $300 each

will fit gtt 2door also

doors with window and window reg $350 each

mirrors $200 each

door handles $50 each

door cards front and rear good condition $700 the lot

aircon condenser no leaks $100

thermal fan $70

xenon headlights $1000

front quarters $600

ganador titanium exhaust has a big dent but could be cut and repaired $300

fiberglass bonnet with pins, damaged secondary lock but not needed with the pins $400

genuine c-west body kit rear bar and side skirts $1500

centre console with carbon material lid $200

glove box $100

gearstick surround and radio surround $400

guage cluster with 70xxx odd kms $600

full interior carpet in good nick just needs a clean $400

Floor mats $300

fuse box with all fuses $70

dash with side vents $200

radiator support ready for some repairs, pretty sure its the same as gtt $200

have pretty much all the seals, pm what you're after $50 each

genuine carbon rear diffuser, not sure what to price this at, throw me some offers, considering keeping it unless its worth something stupid.

all prices reasonably negotiable

pickup western Sydney 2146

post-69199-0-18101000-1410858258_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-47966900-1410858293_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-76167600-1410858330_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-51794000-1410858364_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-94714300-1410858400_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-31000600-1410858434_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-20334200-1410858468_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-33330200-1410858502_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-28559100-1410858537_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-56467000-1410858576_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-31766900-1410858592_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-72623700-1410858610_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-40751200-1410858630_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-20931300-1410858691_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-10326600-1410858834_thumb.jpg

post-69199-0-07518900-1410858843_thumb.jpg

noynp2.jpg

<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=noynp2" target="_blank"><img src="http://i60.tinypic.com/noynp2.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

  • Like 1

Thanks mate

Is the climate control unit the one that sits directly underneath the centre air con vents?

If you have a photo that would be great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...