Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Have a bit of an issue with my mr30 its an l24e running a l20et turbo setup. Car was running fine two days ago went to start it next morning fired for few seconds ran rough and died when i let throttle go, then wouldnt start again just keeps turning over. Knew it was very low on fuel Placed about 10ltrs in, primed it fired briefly died then hasnt fired since. I have checked all cyl for spark, fpr sitting on about 30psi at rail (thought it norm has more) checked a few plugs and they seem to have fuel getting through. If anyone has any ideas or knows of anything that can cause this please help getting very annoyed with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449330-r30-start-issues/
Share on other sites

I have spent the last day going through every electric related to starting I can think of and cant find a prob, spark is jumping about an inch on every cyl fuel psi is sitting on 40 and plugs keep fouling + can see fuel coming out exhaust when turning over. This has me completely stumped it was running perfectly one day then wouldnt start at all the next.(have taken all plugs out cleaned them and jumped with another car to rule out just being flooded). If any1 has any idea at all what it could be plz reply.

Not sure if your engine has an Air Regulator like the RB30 but they can stick in the closed position, not letting enough air through on coldstart which leaves the mix way too rich. (The air regulator should be open when cold and then close up as they get warmer)

Old Engines are Fun. :/

  • 3 weeks later...

Check your Afm, Might need the resistor slider cleaned, Also check the bypass adjustment on the afm also. Your Water temp Sensor (ecu) might be faulty. Those L Serries ECU's are prone to water damage, And pin corrosion, Unplug the ecu and clean each pin with some sandpaper, put some contact grease on them, Try and do something similar on the loom plugs. See how you go after that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...