Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i either didn't receive an instruction manual with my gauge kit or i just lost it, anyway

could someone enlighten me on how the wiring works in this particular setup please ? (which is what)

so far i have the vacuum hose routed to inside the cabin and just need to wire this thing up

but am having difficulty without this manual

post-136677-0-30514600-1413792478_thumb.jpg

Edited by DN14
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449881-boost-gauge-wiring/
Share on other sites

So i either didn't receive an instruction manual with my gauge kit or i just lost it, anyway

could someone enlighten me on how the wiring works in this particular setup please ? (which is what)

so far i have the vacuum hose routed to inside the cabin and just need to wire this thing up

but am having difficulty without this manual

Correct me if I'm wrong guys.... Red = positive! black = ground and green = boost signal.

I'd get 12v power to both ground both blacks, then connect the green from solenoid to the green on the gauge. :)

WTF, has it had a 9v battery hooked up to it at some point?

Looks pretty sketchy to me, Personally I'd buy another gauge but thats just me.

Anyway, as above, red - Power, looks like its supposed to tee in where the 9v battery terminals are. Black will be ground, but not sure if you have to earth it or if it earths through the MAP sensor mount. and green just hook up to the other green. My gauge has 2 seperate plugs, one is the 3 wires back from the gauge, and the other is power, earth and illumination

WTF, has it had a 9v battery hooked up to it at some point?

Looks pretty sketchy to me, Personally I'd buy another gauge but thats just me.

Anyway, as above, red - Power, looks like its supposed to tee in where the 9v battery terminals are. Black will be ground, but not sure if you have to earth it or if it earths through the MAP sensor mount. and green just hook up to the other green. My gauge has 2 seperate plugs, one is the 3 wires back from the gauge, and the other is power, earth and illumination

yeah i was surprised to but the battery was there for demonstration purpose, outside the box theres a "test me" button

currently confused were to earth now lol

yeah they were all like that picked it up from repco, its Autotecnica

anyway earthed to lighter socket all seems working fine

You can connect the black cable to any metal point in the vehicle. I generally use the metal dashboard frame and place the black wire under a screw. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...