Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, first I have had a search and can't find any with my problem. Saying that it's not really a problem but something I would like to fix,

I have a r32 gtst, pretty basic, inter cooler, exhaust, splitfire's, boost set to 11 pound, the car runs fine and never misses a beat.

It used to always want to stall when I had my lights on or when cold but cleaning the Valve with the little screw in it fixed that (don't know the name).

So when it idles it will studder not drop revs but studder and not misfire. I'm thinking spark plugs because I haven't changed them since I got the engine or the 02 sensor or vack leaks. Just to be clear the car runs fine but it's just annoying having it idle weird.

Another thing it could be is the cam cover rebreathers I heard if the are not set up properly things can go wrong. On the far right breather I just have a filter from super cheap would that cause it. Just thought I would ask the pros. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450028-strange-idle/
Share on other sites

Ok so today I have changed the spark plugs gapped to. 0.8. And did the ghetto approach to the rebreathers. And I unblocked the BOV, I had a plate blocking it so it would flutter, it us venting to atmosphere. So the idle is still shit and now the car will hunt. I will block the BOV again to see if it stops hunting and I noticed a lot of the vacuum hoses are split so I will change them. Also if I want to do the rebreathers properly where does the far right pipe go, I got the car with the filter on it, I have a video of it idling but I can't seem to upload it from my iPod

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450028-strange-idle/#findComment-7415160
Share on other sites

Ok so today I put the plate back for the BOV and blocked the vac line for it. I also cleaned the dump pipe o2 sensor.

To my surprise there is no more hunting and after I drove the car a little the studdering idle has gone away. I will see tomorrow when it's cold if it has truly been fixed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450028-strange-idle/#findComment-7415600
Share on other sites

Ok so it is still idling funny, I'm going to change the vac lines at when I can be bothered but the valve connected to the rebreathers is making a funny wirling noise since I took the filter off, any idea's why? And should I take it off and ckean it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450028-strange-idle/#findComment-7416512
Share on other sites

You don't actually have any breather then, that pipe (which is supposed to run down the the black concertina pipe at the turbo inlet) is blocked with a bolt?

Have a bit of a think what you've done, the PCV can try to remove blow-by gasses when there's manifold vacuum, but not once there's manifold pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450028-strange-idle/#findComment-7416669
Share on other sites

Yeah that's bad mmmkay.

Look for pics of stick setups and do that.

In the second pic is that short hose blocked it open? If open it would be causing the dud idle . If blocked it would be preventing crank case pressure escaping when on boost. Which will blow seals out and the dipstick.

It should be plumbed back into the turbo intake as jiffo said.

If it's open, put your thumb over it to block it and see if that helps the idle. That will stop it drawing In unmetered air.

It's not hard to make these engines idle correctly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450028-strange-idle/#findComment-7416889
Share on other sites

In the second pic that is the BOV. Vac line that is blocked with a bolt, I will put the breather pipe back into the turbo intake next time I'm in Perth. Thanks for the help so far.

I can't count sometimes. I meant third pic!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450028-strange-idle/#findComment-7417180
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...