Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello every one . I'm new to the rb25/30 build . I have that shit block that makes it hard to run the timing belt. ( no flat surface . I got the top tensioner Drilled and tapped . I know if you run it the normal way with the new location It's a 152 tooth belt . And run with the other way a 150 tooth belt .

I put a 150 tooth belt on with just the top (relocated tensioner) with no left one . It seams to work fine ? Car starts and runs the timing marks line up and that .

My question is has any one tried this ? And is this a possible way to run this set up

post-137277-0-58274500-1414401110_thumb.jpg

post-137277-0-82792200-1414401152_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450117-rb2530-timing-belt-a-new-way/
Share on other sites

As Ben says it leads to a very long section of unsupported belt. Under normal circumstances you probably won't notice anything but if you're pushing for big power you might end up with bad timing fluctuation due to the flapping belt.

A Ross Balancer and Crank/Cam sensor setup may fix this though. For a measly couple of grand....

No idler on the Toyota JZ engines, although they have a much more heavy duty tensioner system.

BUT…..they run a proper cam and crank angle sensor, not like the thing Nissan runs from the exhaust cam.

I have a theory that Nissan only fitted an idler as they were experiencing too much timing scatter.

Fitting the extra pulley halves the belt harmonic to a level acceptable for most RPM applications.

If you're not using an idler, I'd investigate fitting a JZ tensioner instead of the fixed Nissan design PLUS look into a Ross or similar crank trigger setup.

I've just put a tensioner on either side with mine. Hoping that is enough to be able to maintain tension either side of the crank. I wanted to try another tensioner (3 total) at some point in the belt but doesn't seem to be room. Time will tell if it works ok.

It's not like you are actually looking for a better way, you are just looking for one that works in your case ;)

Can't you just get the correct block? Have you seen when guys have made a plate to go where the idler should be?

Edited by Ben C34

I ended up testing the way . I found that it had a little bit of slap as some said it would . So I now have changed to a new way again it seams to be the best way for me . I would change blocks but the motor is in the car . Thanks for every ones help

post-137277-0-18520700-1414526811_thumb.jpg

That's better.

Ages nizpro did a similar setup with both idler and tensioner above the water pump. I think auto speed has an article on it still.

Edited by Ben C34
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...