Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello every one . I'm new to the rb25/30 build . I have that shit block that makes it hard to run the timing belt. ( no flat surface . I got the top tensioner Drilled and tapped . I know if you run it the normal way with the new location It's a 152 tooth belt . And run with the other way a 150 tooth belt .

I put a 150 tooth belt on with just the top (relocated tensioner) with no left one . It seams to work fine ? Car starts and runs the timing marks line up and that .

My question is has any one tried this ? And is this a possible way to run this set up

post-137277-0-58274500-1414401110_thumb.jpg

post-137277-0-82792200-1414401152_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450117-rb2530-timing-belt-a-new-way/
Share on other sites

As Ben says it leads to a very long section of unsupported belt. Under normal circumstances you probably won't notice anything but if you're pushing for big power you might end up with bad timing fluctuation due to the flapping belt.

A Ross Balancer and Crank/Cam sensor setup may fix this though. For a measly couple of grand....

No idler on the Toyota JZ engines, although they have a much more heavy duty tensioner system.

BUT…..they run a proper cam and crank angle sensor, not like the thing Nissan runs from the exhaust cam.

I have a theory that Nissan only fitted an idler as they were experiencing too much timing scatter.

Fitting the extra pulley halves the belt harmonic to a level acceptable for most RPM applications.

If you're not using an idler, I'd investigate fitting a JZ tensioner instead of the fixed Nissan design PLUS look into a Ross or similar crank trigger setup.

I've just put a tensioner on either side with mine. Hoping that is enough to be able to maintain tension either side of the crank. I wanted to try another tensioner (3 total) at some point in the belt but doesn't seem to be room. Time will tell if it works ok.

It's not like you are actually looking for a better way, you are just looking for one that works in your case ;)

Can't you just get the correct block? Have you seen when guys have made a plate to go where the idler should be?

Edited by Ben C34

I ended up testing the way . I found that it had a little bit of slap as some said it would . So I now have changed to a new way again it seams to be the best way for me . I would change blocks but the motor is in the car . Thanks for every ones help

post-137277-0-18520700-1414526811_thumb.jpg

That's better.

Ages nizpro did a similar setup with both idler and tensioner above the water pump. I think auto speed has an article on it still.

Edited by Ben C34
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...