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Michael's R33

Michael's R33
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Michael's R33 Community Regular

Michael's R33

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Hi Guys i've been apart of this forum for sometime now and though i should share my R33 story.

I previously owned r33 but i have a thing for s1 r33 and was looking for a sunroof version which i found was hard to find manual for some odd reason.. long story short I FOUND IT!!

bought the car for $2200 at pickles auction with a bent rear control arm $50 fix and add some rego i was good to go!post-88360-0-01906000-1414492314_thumb.jpegpost-88360-0-88309300-1414492321_thumb.jpegpost-88360-0-63470100-1414492329_thumb.jpegpost-88360-0-44838300-1414492348_thumb.jpegpost-88360-0-16152400-1414492356_thumb.jpeg

got it home found out it was auto and had a na 33 box in it :( so i had plans to squeeze more power out of the car i bought another smashed s2 R33 for 2.5k and which had an immaculate box in it I know hard to believe :woot: swapped the box and actually finished the conversion and hooked up the reverse lights and neutral wire so car would stall..

here comes the fun i purchased a R34 op6 high flow, 660cc Jecs injectors, Power fc, 044 pump and Z32 bang put it all in off to the tuners i go! car made 243kw on 18psi turbo was surging if we went any higher.

Exterior XXR wheels and bought another Mspec bar and painted it.

ofcause i was eager to find out what time it can do down the qtr so here i am..

post-88360-0-19957000-1414493203_thumb.jpg

Result!!

post-88360-0-91918000-1414493320_thumb.jpgpost-88360-0-41752400-1414493371_thumb.jpg :yes::woot::wub:

since then i have really grown fond of the car and wanted to fix the faded roof so off to the painters it went got a total respray with ceramic clear as i want it to last as long as it can... can't get rid of it now lol money pit!! :yucky:

ill add some more later as I'm going high mount with e85 ps i already bought the turbo :whistling:

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Michael's R33 Community Regular

Michael's R33

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Here is the car after the paintwork also fitted bride kevlar reps and a carbon Gauge a pillar trim with autometer carbon series gauges oil pressure and boost for refpost-88360-0-81986900-1414497903_thumb.jpgpost-88360-0-11615900-1414498009_thumb.jpgpost-88360-0-90177200-1414498064_thumb.jpg

Ive im hanging to get this out on a track day so I decided its time to prep put a gates racing timing belt genuine water pump and pulleys as I didn't know when or if it has been done before and installed a 13 row oil cooler with relocation kit.. I totally removed the water oil heat exchanger with a rb30 oil filter stud I ordered from nissan works a treat cars ready before I squeeze more power.post-88360-0-35616700-1414498475_thumb.jpgpost-88360-0-34712000-1414498563_thumb.jpgpost-88360-0-03427400-1414498608_thumb.jpgpost-88360-0-16237700-1414498650_thumb.jpg

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Michael's R33 Community Regular

Michael's R33

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Now as I gear up for more power I like to acumilate pall the parts so ive done a bit of research and I didnt want to follow the 3076 band wagon nor 3582r was considering efr turbo but this came along and I knew it was a awesome match so I got it hehe getting excited :)post-88360-0-53380500-1414498964_thumb.jpg

T67 25g 10cm rear

Now I need to source a decent highmount manifold a gate I tig weld for fun so ill leave dump pipe till last also ill be changing the rear housing to a t3 which I purchased today from kando with v clamp rear. There alot I missed but ill fill you guys in soon.

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    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

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      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
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      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

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      100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
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      Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

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      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
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