Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

in the process of finalising my RB25DE+T conversion, just want to know if the removal of the cold start valve is ok.

From what Ive read this valve can be removed, will idle perhaps a little rough when cold but other than that it seems to be ok, especially by those that have fitted front facing plenums.

If anyone knows for sure, or has done this please let me know, any info is appreciated!

Cheers!

Edited by Paulusc44
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451028-rb20rb25-cold-start-valve-removal/
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Thread revival!

I'm not going to plumb my cold start valve to the coolant lines on my Neo engine. AAC valve will remain however.

1) Will the idle during a cold start be much of an issue? I live in a reasonably warm climate for most of the year.

2) Given the ACC valve is just a solenoid valve, would it be worth me wiring it up a separate controller that triggers it when the coolant temp is > x? The car has no a/c so I figure the AAC wont be used much by accessories in the car.

I will be running a Link G4 ECU.

Cheers

Justin

Actually thinking about it, the cold start valve will always be open given no coolant will be going through it to close it when warm. Hopefully I can just turn down the IAC valve screw to compensate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...