Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

so i bought my r34 gtr a month ago and after a week noticed slight hesitation while cruising at 120ish, now a week later some days the car is sweeet pulls hard other days i can feel the hesitation. then driving back to work after lunch it was almost undrivable for a couple of minutes, could only put like five percent throttle on other wise it would completely miss and be hopping down the road ( it was like someone was giving it %100 throttle then nothing, all within a second. then after a couple of minutes it came right.

seems to do it when engine is warm

its now done this a few times but had a day in between with no problems, now a list of things ive tried

i read alot on here but couldnt find anything i thought was my problem. my ecu is only giving me code 55 which is all clear, i checked hoses for leaks , i forgot to do inlet gasket but i will try that, i cleaned afm's , chucked a new set of spark plugs at it, ngk platniums which are 1.1mm gapped,

been told it could be water in fuel tank but im not sure

any replys will be greatly appreciated

post-131770-0-57288600-1418128128_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451587-hesitation-turned-into-misfire/
Share on other sites

afms were getting dirty due to the air filter seal around the outside had a chunk missing, ive already replaced the filter as soon as i seen it and cleaned the afms but yeah il gap the plugs this weekend, and il look into the O2 sensor, thanks

put the afm back in, car was fine until it warmed up then did the exact same thing, but this time the ecu threw a code, 12 which is afm, so either it was afm or i damaged something in the afm and its that now aswell :( haha going to pull them both out recheck everything and solder if i need to then clear the ecu and try again, cars symptons were the same though so i am leaning towards a faulty afm

i do want to put an powerfc or something in it but i live 600kms (perth) away from any decent tuner so id have to raise a bit of money and go there for a couple of days and then somehow get around while they had it ...

anyway update: i took both afms out, resoldered the plug and sensor connections on both cleaned them and put them back in, its better now the car hasnt hopped (like a complete cut of power) for a couple of days but it still has hesitation, doesnt have the pull it used to just lacking a bit of power, the ecu is also no longer throwing the air flow meter code after they were soldered again

any suggestions at all anyone?

thanks

just discovered today that the hesitation is constant when the engine is still only just in vaccum and when you make about .1 bar of boost it starts pulling again if this helps anyone

  • 4 weeks later...

just incase anyone follows this in the future the problem ended up being 2 problems at once haha

a bad solder connection on the afm caused the car to hop and cut power, dont know which connection it was just soldered up every main one,

secondly it still had hesitation after fixing the afm so bought the consult plug off ebay for 25 (highly recomend getting one) and noticed straight away the rear 02 sensors voltage was just staying at .4 or something and the other one was actually reading and bouncing around with different revs on so replaced the rear 02 sensor and problems solved.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...