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Rb25Det Rebuild

daymo

By daymo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

The best way to check your plugs/coilpacks are actually doing something is to have a coilpack/s out, remove the CAS, turn the ignition on, ground the spark plug and then spin the CAS. FYI you have to spin it the right way so if nothing happens spin the other way. You can usually hear the injectors when you are spinning the right way anyway.

I may be mistaken, it might be the injectors that will only work in the right direction. Dont remember, but no biggie anyway.

Get a new ignitor, earth it and then try the above.

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Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

I never said to disconnect no fuel lines :P

But if they are disconnected, then yes pull fuse

Haha.

I meant spray heaps of fuel around into the engine. Depending how much cas spinning fun you have ;)

  • 5 months later...
daymo Rookie

daymo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys so its been awhile since I updated my progress but I replaced the ignition module and got the car started but ended up 3 houses from the mechanics and it died again pushed it to the shop and after 2 weeks they told me the engine had seized and would never go again so I got a car trailer and towed it home so over the last few months I have pulled the motor out, striped it down (and found no signs of seizing e.g no marks on the crank) so proceeded to do a full standard rebuild so new bears for both crank and conrods, crank measured and polished, new piston rings, bored honed out, etc and the car now runs and has passed rego and I am now just faced with the fine tuning which is where my questions lay.

I am having trouble getting it to idle lower then 1000 rpm and my afm sounds like a vacuum cleaner it is sucking that much with or without the filter (which was only to see if the filter was dirty) I have read a few forums and done a few things from them such as cleaning the aac valve checked all vacuum lines by spraying carby cleaner on them but with no difference and at the moment my idle screw is all the way in and 1000 is the best I can get, it does idle hunt a little when coming to an intersection or stopping, I have the R33 s1 with the ecu that has the screw in the back but when I turn it there is no noticeable difference in idle except when It get to certain points which im guessing is some sort of marker where the idle increases until it gets off the marker and it never seems to stop turning like there is no end to the screw.

daymo Rookie

daymo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The first time I did it it was really hard to turn over by hand but was possible and I had done all the work with the engine in the car but this time the mechanics had already pulled the engine out and had already loosened the con rods so I didn't get to find out for myself just had to go on their word but this time its was a really good build and it turns over by hand heaps easier. I learnt alot from my mistakes the first time now I just need to fine tune it to get it running perfectly and every time it feels like I am getting closer to getting there I just feel like im missing something and can't quiet get it to idle properly.

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