Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i did try to my research before starting another thread, ive read up on two separate posts that a series 1 r34 gtt bar will straight bolt on to a series 2, but ive also read that id need to change the reo and brackets for my headlight? has anyone swapped a series 2 bar before? (was contemplating the type r front bar swap)

Edited by Dominxc
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452362-r34-series-1-2-front-bar/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I can't speak for the Type R front bar - but the Nismo front bar won't fit without the reo change

I have just taken off my s2 front bar to swap for the nismo only to find out it doesn't fit :(

  • 1 month later...

I can't speak for the Type R front bar - but the Nismo front bar won't fit without the reo change

I have just taken off my s2 front bar to swap for the nismo only to find out it doesn't fit :(

Hi Mate

I have the same problem, what did you do. Did you have to buy a series 1 bar.

The reo bar (big metal bit in the middle) is the same.

The black headlight support things (can't think of a better name) are what's different between series 1 and 2 fitment.

They are literally the only difference.

Reo.jpg

Forgive my paint skills. Red parts are what you need, but the middle bar above the reo is a different part but will fit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...