Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

im sure this has been covered countless times, but i got some funny reading and im just after a second opinion

Compression test values are as follows:

DRY TEST (no oil):

1 - 110 psi

2 - 105 psi

3 - 105 psi

4 - 100 psi

5 - 115 psi

6 - 100 psi


WET TEST (oil dropped in cylinder) :
1 - 120 psi

2 - 125 psi

3 - 105 psi
4 - 195 psi
5 - 150 psi

6 - 160 psi


the wet test threw me off about with how much variance there was, but as well as that it seemed quite low on the dry test
thanks in advance
cheers

ohh i forgot to mention its my mates r33 im looking to buy
just wanted to do a check before i commit....as far as i know it runs pretty sweet

Edited by stagea_1998

Why did you test it? Any problems?

If not just drive it. People get caught up and just confuse themselves with comp tests.

ohh i forgot to mention its my mates r33 im looking to buy

just wanted to do a check before i commit....as far as i know it runs pretty sweet

if it runs well and doesn't blow smoke, don't worry about it.

btw does it have standard cams? the number are low but cams can affect that (and also the exact testing procedure of course(

if it runs well and doesn't blow smoke, don't worry about it.

btw does it have standard cams? the number are low but cams can affect that (and also the exact testing procedure of course(

nah all standard internally theres just a few basic bolt ons

im pretty well inclined to say its fine but i always like to have a second opinion when im unsure

Edited by stagea_1998

Re The testing procedure - figures do not seem consistent (bad or good) - Dry V Wet variances. Readings on some are all over the place.

I'd have some one else who does this often re-test first. It's just too inconsistent.

Eg. cyl 4 has jumped 95psi

Variances

10

20

0

95

35

60

thats what i thought ...its a massive jump!!

i did use a second tester to check as well after i saw that to confirm the reading and sure enough it was dead on

ive done plenty of comp tests over the years on cars me and my brothers have bought and with the same test procedure id get pretty consistent readings...so id say ive an idea what im doing lol

this ones thrown me though....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...