Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wrecking R33 GTR V-SPEC

this is all i have left

Hks temp gauge (NO WIRING) $30
Mines Ecu $130
Bmc bm57 with booster $150
Gearbox pull type $800
Rear seat $150
Grill mint $200
Bonnet with bonnet pins few dents $80
Headlights $350 pair
Sideskirts 2 peice $150

steering wheel s1 good condition $100
Front Reo $150
Rear diff v spec $300

rear hubs $350 pair
Rear drive shafts $120 each
Subframe bracing $100
Tailshaft $100
Clutch booster $ 50
Door cards $150 set
Ignition barrel and locks $150
Rear bar $80
rear gaurds great for wide body $500
Most things available

GOLD COAST BUT CAN POST

0487924497

TEXT FOR PICTURES PLEASE

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454813-r33-gt-r-parts/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Definitely take the steering wheel, any pics? Also, if you had the hand brake leather grip - see pic mine is a bit crappy.

IMG 20140303 165547   small

IMG 20140303 165521   small

Also, the driver's side power window surround thingo - mines looking a bit crappy.
Even if yours isnt in great condition it would be great to have one to paint up.
Thanks,
Geoff
Edited by Penfold
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454813-r33-gt-r-parts/#findComment-7532038
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...