Jump to content
SAU Community

Check Engine Light Strangely Come On (r34)

RXXXIV

By RXXXIV,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

RXXXIV Contributor

RXXXIV

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

So a few weeks back I got a major defect on my ER34 25GT Series 1 NA and therefore had to get a roadworthy. My HKS exhaust wouldn't pass, so i purchased a Series 2 Turbo Stock Catback system with Muffler. After I swapped them back over, after driving for 5 minutes or so the Check engine light now comes on. If i drove the car hard it would stay off but if i drove it normally it would always come on. Now its coming on as soon as the car starts up.

I should also mention I have smashed out the inside of the cat so im assuming thats what might be causing it? Although, the sensor for the exhaust is closer to the engine i think?

Someone told me i should disconnect the battery for 12 hours as that resets the ECU which will then allow it to re learn everything.

Basically I'm just asking for help getting the light off?

Any ideas or comments would be great :)
Thanks,

Justin

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

I should also mention I have smashed out the inside of the cat so im assuming thats what might be causing it? Although, the sensor for the exhaust is closer to the engine i think?

not real smart to talk about that after getting defected. Cops read forums too you know!

R34s are sensitive and throw codes quite easily. Mine told me about coil packs before it even started missing under load. The R34 doesn't have a cat temp sensor (at least mine doesn't) so that won't be a problem. The only sensor in the exhaust is the O2 sensor, and that may be on its way out. You need to check the fault codes and that will tell you exactly what is wrong. O2 sensor and coil packs are the 2 most common issues.

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
nismo_d'luxe Apprentice

nismo_d'luxe

Posted
Posted

not real smart to talk about that after getting defected. Cops read forums too you know!

R34s are sensitive and throw codes quite easily. Mine told me about coil packs before it even started missing under load. The R34 doesn't have a cat temp sensor (at least mine doesn't) so that won't be a problem. The only sensor in the exhaust is the O2 sensor, and that may be on its way out. You need to check the fault codes and that will tell you exactly what is wrong. O2 sensor and coil packs are the 2 most common issues.

Yeah my R34 did exactly the same thing. The light came on for about 2 weeks no problems whatsoever, the light went away for a couple more weeks then came back and one of the coil packs had shit the tin intermittently in the process.

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Obtain the code for a definitive answer.

Likely 02 Sensor - Chck and replace if faulty

Reset your ECU. disconnect the battery and push down on the brake pedal several times and hold it down for a few secs

Others have been known to take globe out. Issue with that is obvious (other faults wont be detected)

Have you or the previous owner replaced the coil packs. Also a common issue with the R34.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...