nismo_d'luxe

f**ken on the money mate that thing is gorgeous

Never saw the point in a catback personally, what is the point in 3 inch cat back exhaust if you have 2 inch restricting the exhaust gas flowing between the exhaust manifold & the cat? But perhaps im wrong. Hicas delete is great if you want to drift but I like high speed cornering so im sticking with the hicas. Im expecting at the end of it all to have pretty much been able to buy an rb26dett which im also well and truly considering

I can tell you I do have hicas & an lsd who wants traction control anyway f**k that haha. I was going to go to a walbro 255lph pump, nismo 550cc injectors, nismo s-tune suspension (coil-overs to stiff for roads out here) and r33 gtr brembos running on 245/35/18 possibly nankang rubber (cheaper and still perform well when hot), splitfire coilpacks (thats a given) run a 3 inch turbo back exhaust with a deleted cat and a 3076r steel wheel ball bearing turbo, front mount trust intercooler with twin thermofans (no clutch fan). I am fairly capable behind the wheel but by no means a racecar driver, this thing will be pushed well above 200km/h so it needs to handle and perform well.

Yeah righto, so pretty much all the running gear needs replacing. That sucks ass, might try find a wrecked 34 gt-t for cheap or just trade mine up

Cant you piggy back the manual ecu's anyway? I only just read this the other day so perhaps its bullshit. I didnt think the gearboxes were any different between a turbo & non turbo 34 except perhaps the ratios, I was thinking gtr syncros though cuz I know the syncros in those boxes suck ass. I will be chasing a diff though, 4.11 is great but not for high speeds. If I can run 300kw eventually I will be happy, im only aiming for about 200 at the wheels at the moment though so I can get used to driving some proper power. Cheers for the info ill have a read

Not to be "that guy" but I've got an n/a neo thats looking at being replaced by a turbo neo in the next 12 months....regardless of the engine everyone seems to get great results from turbo'ing n/a motors but it seems to be the general concensus that they pretty much turn into hand grenades if you choose to go down this path...so my question is how many km's have you done since your de+t and how hard do you drive it? My skyline is my toy so I treat it mean but am fairly scrputenous on maintenence. I personally think im far better off dropping an already turbo'd neo motor into it...what is your oppinion? I want something thats going to last as opposed to a better low end torque curve.

What are micro-beads? I also thought what if I went with metal mend to give it some strength and then a smear of bog for the finish

If you get the time you should, well worth a read. Really informative, gives a great breakdown of the whole process, shows some good ways around dilemas and some good ways to do things, ill vouch for him and say this guy knows his shit! Your an admin aren't you?

And Lhs headlight will buy both if I have too only if they're xenons though

G'day mate extemely interested in bonnet, left hand side front guard, the front aero panel if you have it(not the one that sits under the engine the one that sits directly behind the fron bumper bar, and if you have it the windscreen washer pump for the front windscreen.

Yeah sweet go man, dont wanna hassle ya before christmas though. haha I keep forgetting its nearly christmas. f**k me man that list of mods....you didnt do it half assed that thing will be f**ken bulletproof! Im frothing at the mouth to see this thing in the flesh

Shit yeah!! Catch up with you sometime this week man was reading the description like "huh? I know that setup!!"

G'day guys saw this thread is quite old but still relevant. I need some advise on what to fill the cracks with from the front? do i use the fibreglass glue? do i use some bog? or a combination of the two i.e fill it in as much as i can with the fibreglass resin then bog over the top? just seems to me that if i just pack bog into it they will lose a lot of the structural integrity and a slight bump and she will be busted again. Your advice is muchly appreciated thank you Regards Nick

Yeah my R34 did exactly the same thing. The light came on for about 2 weeks no problems whatsoever, the light went away for a couple more weeks then came back and one of the coil packs had shit the tin intermittently in the process.

G'day guys hopefully you see this before i do the job but, im doing a repair on a silver (KV2) R34, to the LHS quarter panel, it's all sanded back, and I've just applied bog to a small area that i decided was waaayyyy more of a pain to try tap out that to just slap a small smear of bog over the top and respray. so my question is, what is the best way to get any residual bog off from the paint that hasnt been sanded back to be resprayed??

yeah man i have only had the top two plugs on the side of my fusebox with corrosion every other plug i checked was absolutely fine. i just use repco contact cleaner bro its all the same shit and i aint paying $35 bucks when for $12 i can get the same thing.

So what you just replace the bulbs out of your old tail lights with these and your good to roll or? sorry but dont know anyone thats changed their r34 tail lights to the led ones i have absolutely no clue

i always try to use royal purple unless im broke then i go penrite. 10W40 is what i opt for and usually its a fully synthetic oil

So after trying for 4 months to find the issue, finding a multitude of what i would call minor electrical faults I.E every time i fixed 1 i still didnt get ignition, I finally bit the bullet and took it into an auto electrician. Got it back a week ago so far all seems to be fine. All it was, was a plug behind the ignition barrel. It had gotten hot and worked itself loose, gotten hotter and worked itself looser, so on and so fourth. $140 bucks for the privilege probably took them 10 minutes but thank god its all fixed and running again. Not to mention any future electrical problems i would have had as a result of any of the minor electrical problems are somewhat eliminated preemptively so alls good Thanks for everyone's input and help. Is it just a good contact cleaner or... cuz i've got inox man and i aint no auto electrician but this shit kicks ass. stinks like f**k and hard to get off your hands but seems to work well.

Found of the three plugs attached to the fuse box the top two were absolutely packed full of corrosion cleaned them out and it runs again. not sure if that was the issue but certainly wouldnt have helped.

its a relay it must be! car died again over the weekend lucky i was expecting it so she wasnt too far from home going to change the relay behind my ecu before i bugger around trailering it home. damn cars aye

so after fiddling around in my drivers side foot well and deciding to roll my car forward so i could get in there easier my steering lock came on and when i turned the ignition on i noticed all my dash lights fired up!! i quickly hooked up all my fuel lines and it started first turn literally not even a wind over fired literally straight away. i let it sit and warm up while i cleaned up all my tools and double checked everything was back on where it was men't to be. cautiously at first i took it for a drive out the road and it ran flawlessly once again. when i got home i noticed a large fuel leak underneath the car when idling im guessing due to my not properly tightening a return line in the boot so i switched the car off straight away. when i turned the key my dash lights came on first time so i think whatever it was that was wrong is solved (fingers crossed). I will check this leak tomorrow and hopefully its all good to go!! i think whatever drives my windscreen wiper fluid is gone too though because its full of water and no dice.

its deffs not my pump thats how this all started i replaced it and bam shit started going haywire. yeah my ECU isnt turning on at all im not sure if it has power to it or not though. I have quadruple checked my fuses this time with a mulitmeter like you said Kinks i need to work out if my ecu is getting power which i hope its not haha if it is getting power and not turning on it would mean my ECU is fried yes? TY Trident i will check my earth too should be fine but hey i have checked everything else!!

When i disconnected the negative terminal when i replaced the fuel pump i noticed some corrosion so i whipped them both off and gave them a good cleaning just with a rag and scrapped any corrosion off with a screwdriver. About 3 months ago i gave it a full service and put a K&N panel filter in i recently read that sometimes the oil off them clogs up the AFM is that a possibility too or is it more likely to be the ECCS Relay? It does seem like its a dodgy relay however i checked all the relays in the engine bay fuse box and no scorch marks or rattling. Any relays under the dash or other such strange locations?

G'day mate i notice your running a k&n panel filter i run the same filter but only just put it in a few months ago how much attention should i pay to my air flow sensor? (i.e how do you deal with the oil off the panel onto your sensor) i have heard this can be an issue but more often than not its perfectly fine i just dont want to run into any issues further down the track so if you could give us some maintenence advice or a bit of a guide it would be much appreciated thanks mate