Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

Before I start...yes I have used the search tool but most of the results are not what I'm looking (or I may have overlooked it)

I got HID's in my car and I want to know how to adjust the headlights as my ones are not aligned (I think one is higher than the other but I'm not sure which is correct).

I'm not talking about the adjustment switch in the cabin (which works. I can click from 0 to 3 and see the headlights move up and down) but have them properly aimed

Is it a easy thing to do it yourself??

Thanks In Advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455193-stagea-s2-headlight-adjustment/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Rough guide

Find a parking lot or similar area where you can park in front of a wall 30 meters away or similar flat surface on level ground and measure the height of the bottom edge of the Headlight then at the wall your parked in front of mark that same height make sure that the switch in the car is at 0 On low beam. Now move the switch to the first lower setting and check that both lights drop a similar amount. This will be you base setting ( Hi you can't do a lot about I believe)

Sorry to disagree with you Kiwi but you must adjust your Low first so that the interaction between Low and High beam is kept to a minimum only cars with a separate Hi-Beam light can be adjusted independently.

The reason I do this is so that the setting on the Low beam is normally at setting 1 on the dash so that the Low Beam can be raised if needed (this doesn't effect High beam as the filament is at the centre of rotation) , thus doesn't move.. but you can raise the Low slightly without dazzeling oncoming traffic if needed

Once this is set you are pretty much at the mercy unfortunately of the High-beam internally as the adjustment is not separate ( not in mine it isn't at least) within the Light fitting,

Normally you always set your lo beam first and then check where the Pool of light is for High. unless you have cars with a separate High & Low light like many car with 4 lights

Remember the Stagea (2001-2005) the adjustment screws move the entire inner bulb holder left/ right and up/down so setting low can effect High and vice versa.

Check High beam yes as you state but I think you'll find that the pool of light will be at or close to the centre height of the lower bulb (High-Beam/Fog) within the fixture anyway.

I had to cheat and loosen the mounting bolts on the actual light fitting itself to get them pointing better, after this some fine adjustment and job done.

I put a HID Kit in the High-beam / Fog light and this worked a treat.

I have got to set my wife's car after I do the suspension and alignment so I should make a photo shoot and tutorial out of it . eh

Excerpt from Motorama Web Site

  1. Park the car on level ground 7.5 metres (use a tape measure) from a flat vertical surface, your garage wall will work.
  2. Open the bonnet and look at the back of the headlight casing, on most models there will be two adjustment screws/bolts on the rear or top of each headlight-locate them and grab the right tool in order to turn them (check the owner’s manual to be sure they’re the right ones).
  3. Cover one headlight with a towel or similar and turn the headlights on (you may want to have the engine running if your battery isn’t new).
  4. One screw will adjust the headlight up/down while the other will adjust left/right – keeping your eye on the beam on the wall slowly turn one of the screws to determine which direction it’s adjusting, if it’s not the way you want turn it back to the original location and use the other screw.
  5. Ideally the beam on the wall should be no higher than the centreline of the headlight with the area of most intensity directly in front of the headlight casing(use your tape measure here again to measure from the ground to the middle of your headlight and do the same on the wall when adjusting – you can even put a mark on the wall to help you aim).
  6. In Australia you want the most intensity from the left hand headlight on the road shoulder, and as such the top of the headlight beams should display a pair of laidback L shapes on the wall as seen in the illustration.
  7. Repeat the procedure for the other headlight.

    http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/technical-stuff/132143d1241416361t-how-adjust-headlight-beams-hl.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/5ec57fe4-3a46-1ba6.jpg

Edited by MozzMann

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...