Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A friend of fine has just installed a massive FMIC but after the installation took place the car seems to reach a boost cut and dangerously jerks around the 4000rpm. the cars is an auto has a pod + exhaust nothing else was changed apart from the intercooler the car is running standard boost (car has never been boosted).

Also what we have done is blocked off the hose that used to go into the intercooler pipe.

Any ideas??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45582-r33-jerking/
Share on other sites

A friend of fine has just installed a massive FMIC but after the installation took place the car seems to reach a boost cut and dangerously jerks around the 4000rpm. the cars is an auto has a pod + exhaust nothing else was changed apart from the intercooler the car is running standard boost (car has never been boosted).  

Also what we have done is blocked off the hose that used to go into the intercooler pipe.

Any ideas??

Hey Guys,

I take it you installed a FMIC Kit (possibly a Hybrid). Great kits but they failed to provide one thing the nipple on the pipe in the same position as the stock one.

I did not take a chance with mine as figured it must have been there for a reason, so I got a local welding place to put brass nipple mounted in a peice of aluminium and drilled a hole in the pipe and aluminium welded the whole thing in so it created a seal.

Attached the hose to it once installed and got on with enjoying my new found power.

get this done dude. If you want pics of mine just pm me.

Cheers,

J-Flash :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45582-r33-jerking/#findComment-928735
Share on other sites

i read the heading for your post and was gunna say you shouldnt be doing that in your car.........but after reading your post,id say youve upset the pcm valves feed line

Troy,

thanks for that, is the solution feeding the hose back in to the intercooler piping somehow if so any ideas??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45582-r33-jerking/#findComment-928759
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...