Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

So Iv just had my starter motor reconditioned with brushes and bushes an since Iv put it back in Iv been having problems. When I go to start the car it sometimes sounds like it's jamming or just spinning... Iv taken it back out an have had a look, both the Starter motor an flywheel teeth seem to be fine just a few little chips from the issue I'm having.

I have put a new battery with a lot more cranking amps as my older battery, could that be part of the issue?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456190-starter-motor-or-flywheel-issue/
Share on other sites

Still having trouble with it :( need some help again.

When the starter motor is out it works fine, throws out an spins like it should, but when I hook it back up it sounds like it's spinning an not catching the flywheel... But after having a few go's at trying to start it, it does connect some times an I am able to start the car, never done this before I took it out the first time so it woulndt be the flywheel right?

Please help I'm so stumped on this :/

Did you return it to the workshop?

A bit of info to help diagnose.

When you hit the start position, the first thing that happens is the solenoid pulls the Bendix into mesh with the flywheel.

As the solenoid reaches the end of it's travel, it bridges the high amp switch contacts which supply power to the actual starter motor, and away she goes.

So if it motors but doesn't engage, you could have a busted Bendix or the solenoid lever may have been assembled incorrectly, (easy mistake to do) and then the engagement to the flywheel is incorrect.

This is why it's best for a competent shop to mount, test and measure the Bendix throw etc.

As an aside, the high amp contacts down at the bottom of the solenoid are often a forgotten item when a starter is "overhauled".

If the starter has been run with a dead/dying battery for a while, the contacts melt.

2 things, 1 double check the entire ring gear for worn teeth, its possible that if the engine comes to rest in the same position as where the worn teeth on the flywheel line up with the starter motor it won't mesh, 2 the starter motor may throw out the drive gear but will it take a load at the same time? It's possible the one way bearing is stuffed hence it will work fine on the bench but not when it's in the car. Something as important as a stater motor you have already wasted time and effort with trying to save money having it repaired just do it right and replace with new. Hope this helps

  • 1 year later...

The solenoid on top of the starter normally comes with a set of spacer rings. These rings detemine how far the solenoid throws out the starter pinion which in turn determines whether the starter pinion engages fully or partially. i would suggest that the people who reco'ed your starter may need to add or remove the spacers.

When I bought a new solenoid for another nissan i was given 3 spacers.

Michael.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...