Jump to content
SAU Community

Can Anyone Tell Me What This Is?

BrentC

By BrentC,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

BrentC Newbie

BrentC

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Thanks to the flooding in brisbane last night I was forced to take my car a large amount of water gushing over a crossing. car made it was a bit iffy at one point. anyway when i got home I found that the plastic guard at the front of the front left tyre was ripped clean off. there was something ziptied to the guard that I have no idea what it is im thinking its a carbon canister but just want to check before I do something about replacing/fixing the thing.

Here is a picture of the peice

post-139972-0-89748900-1430539531_thumb.jpg

this is where the plastic guard it was ziptied to was

post-139972-0-54240100-1430539534_thumb.jpg

the hose still attached to the mystery peice was connected to the t peice here

post-139972-0-75600400-1430539537_thumb.jpg

the hose still hanging down can be seen wrapping around and then attaching to a hose

post-139972-0-82004600-1430539539_thumb.jpg

so really what is it? what does it do? do I need it? if not seeing as it has removed itself what do i need to do to tidy up this mess

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456258-can-anyone-tell-me-what-this-is/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

It looks like a carbon canister. I'm failry sure I've seen one on an R33 before, but its odd because I have the same one as your third photo on my car. Most people I think have those ones but the one that fell off I'm sure I've seen it on another R33. Perhaps aftermarket/compliance carbon canister? Or off another version Nissan? Maybe a series 2 carbon canister?

Why your car would have had 2 installed is beyond me but

BrentC Newbie

BrentC

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks guys so if its an evaporation canister and I need it there I'm gusseing i should replace it. the bottom was broken off from scraping on the road so i can see that its just a big empty space inside so evaporation canister would make sense. also when you say need it there is that like a compliance/ keep the enviro nuts happy kind of thing because i took it down to the shops today and it seems to run fine and im guessing it was broken for most of the ride home so most likely not working then either would have been like another hour or so of driving im guessing. Also the car is pretty stock standard since the day i got it the previous owner had put on an intercooler and a BOV and ive only added a boost controller and a new fuel pump as well as whole new set of camber arms and bushes. there was 3 blue vaccumm lines in the engine bay when i got it also with a 3 way peice connecting them.

Edited by BrentC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...