Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an OP6 turbo which I pulled off my R34 over five years ago. The turbo was working fine when I removed it, had done ninety odd thousand k's, and everything looked to be in great condition.

I decided to sell it so I could clear up some space so I pulled it out of storage and the noticed the compressor wheel did not spin very freely (I remembered it did when I pulled it off). Given there would be no oil in the bearings after all these years I ran some oil through it and sure enough the compressor wheel again span really freely.

So all good but then I noticed a tiny bit of oil dripping out from both the compressor and turbine sides. I took the front cover off and it did appear that a bit of oil was coming from under the compressor wheel. I assume this is coming through the oil seals?

Could the seals have dried out after all these years? I thought they would be a metal seal so I can't see how.

Thoughts?

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456687-turbo-seal-question/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
    • The pressure light likely has a different sender to a pressure gauge, its been too long for me to remember for sure. Just have a look for another sender down near the oil filter. If you are confident in your rewired pressure sender reading correctly, you can be pretty sure it is just the dash light's sender failing, it is a pretty common thing.
    • It would be nice to see the result, but instagram is a click too far
    • That is a series 1 front end (grill, bumper, headlights). I'm not sure if you are trying to confirm if your whole car is series 1 or just the headlights, but the build date and vin# on the plaque in the engine bay would be the best reference for what it was when it left the factory (noting a lot may have changed over the years)
×
×
  • Create New...