Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i've got a R34 GTT, thats running a rough and i've got no clue as to how to fix it. Its your standard Rb25 Neo, but with aftermarket intercooling tubing, a pod filter and a HKS G176 BOV, recently i've changed the oil, sparkplugs, rocker cover gaskets and half moon seals.

Firstly on a cold start, it starts up and idles perfectly, but when re-starting it up ( Warm start ) the car won't continue to run and will only run if I hold the accelerator on for 5-10 seconds at 1000-1200 RPM.

Secondly sometimes when I'm accelerating at a normal speed, i hear popping sounds from the engine bay and I loose a considerable amount of power. The only way that i've been able to overcome this issue is by revving the engine over 4000rpm and then it goes away after a little. I also get this same issue at the top end of my revs, its almost like i can accelerate to a certain point and then it begins to pop. Its like the engine can go harder but is being stopped by something.

Thirdly, My check engine light comes on after about 5-10 minutes of driving. My dad and I found that my turbo had melted my O2 sensor wires, and still after re-wiring it, the check engine light still comes on, so I have no clue as to what to do with that.

And lastly i was wondering if its normal in turbo cars to get oil on the inside of your inter cooler / turbo / intake tubing. There is a decent amount oil along the sides of the tubing that's got me worried.

Any help would be appreciated, Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457096-r34-gtt-engine-problems/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...