Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I fitted eccentric bushing caster arms into my R33 recently and thought I would do a very quick write up on it (my first write up so take it easy!)

Tools needed:

- 17mm socket and accompanying ratchet

- 17mm spanner

- Pry bar to move the suspension/wheel forward to accommodate for the change in suspension

- Soft mallet to make things easier if things are stiff

- Jack

- Jack stands

Time needed: 30 minutes max for a first timer includes finding the right tools, jacking up and packing everything away.

Info: An eccentric bushing or bushing with eccentric crush tube is one which offsets the position of the bushing for adjustment - In this case, caster.

Before VS After:

6D298CB9-926D-4029-9D30-A1577DF4E37A_zps

7DA8F4FB-7191-43C4-BE47-3AFED56B2F1E_zps

1) Jack the car up and place stands under it. Place the stands in a place which will allow you to get under the front wheels safely an with ease

2) Undo the 17mm bolt using two spanners or a ratchet and spanner on each side from the front busing

6D298CB9-926D-4029-9D30-A1577DF4E37A_zps

3) Undo the two 17mm bolts off the studs on the lower control arm

2870B16C-D014-408C-AE1D-F4AD77E7DFFF_zps

904B8E77-8808-4B18-B480-B0CC6DCF7226_zps

4) Push the caster arm up and out of the way

Installation is reverse of removal however depending on how your eccentric bushing is set you will need to move the wheel forward or backwards to get the holes to align. I put my eccentric crush tube in the position that shortens the length of the caster arm. This meant that I had to push the back of the wheel to the front of the car.

I also have a video of the old bushings in the stock caster arms which is still uploading but I'll post here when it's done.

Let me know if there any improvements for next time!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457326-diy-r33-eccentricoffset-caster-arms/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Just an update on this

I got stung pretty badly by the alignment shop because of these bushes. They said it took ages to adjust therefore cost more because they kept having to remove and reinstall.

Just an update on this

I got stung pretty badly by the alignment shop because of these bushes. They said it took ages to adjust therefore cost more because they kept having to remove and reinstall.

This confirms my theory that eccentric bushes are good in theory but less so in practice. I used to run Whiteline eccentrics in the rear (spent ages pressing out the OEM bushes too) and ended up replacing camber and traction arms with adjustable items, much easier to align.

  • 3 weeks later...

This confirms my theory that eccentric bushes are good in theory but less so in practice. I used to run Whiteline eccentrics in the rear (spent ages pressing out the OEM bushes too) and ended up replacing camber and traction arms with adjustable items, much easier to align.

Yep - The alignment shop wasn't very impressed nor was I when it came to paying the bill.

He said "The price difference between the two is good but when the arms have to come off this many times you start to pay a lot more for labour so it works out the same anyway"

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...