Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10857985_10154064959259386_8514914338982

Sunday 27th September

The 2015 event will run in two separate divisions.

Social Drive for beginners and enthusiasts who want to take their car for a nice drive on interesting roads by following a simple set of directions (no traps). No special requirements, just a current drivers license and a passenger or two to read you the directions
Championship course for those competing in the HRA Touring series and Standard Car class championships. This is a challenging tulip route course for cams affiliated club members. a Cams level 2NS license or better is required. Licenses at this level can be purchased from CAMS website or applied for on the day.



No experience is necessary to enjoy this event and you won't be alone as a new starter. All you need is a registered road car, licensed driver and a passenger who can read and interpret basic route instructions. Many crews bring extra passengers to help out and make it a fun day.

Please note this NOT a speed event. All Victorian road rules will apply.

The Event starts in Eltham and tours through the picturesque Yarra ranges and Yarra valley areas. It will take approximately 4 hours in total to complete the event, including a rest stop. A BBQ lunch is available at the finish destination. It's a great way to spend your Sunday with family or friends.

We are expecting a capacity field this year, places allocated only on receipt of official entry. Don't miss out, book now!

Are you up for the challenge?

Enter here -
http://www.driveforlife.net.au/enter-the-event/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457586-drive-for-life-2015/
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...