Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morning everyone.

Been lurking here a while but haven't posted much. My company specializes in PnP DBW conversion kits for Nissan R-Chassis and others. We developed our kit around my personal car and have continued to improve our products and offering for the most complete kits available.

We've developed this resource page for manifold fitment and the adapters we offer:

https://outsidergarage.com/pages/dbw-adapter-information-which-adapter-can-i-use

 

We've also created a new option for R-Chassis DBW pedal. Our own unit which is Billet, Adjustable and Modular.=:

https://outsidergarage.com/products/og-universal-billet-dbw-pedal-assembly

  • Our pedal comes in roughly 200g lighter than a 350Z pedal
  • It has a modular base allowing different pedal options - 3 currently available (Street, Drift and Race)
  • It is 4 way adjustable (height, pitch, side/side and reach)
  • It uses a standard 350Z pedal sensor.

 

If anyone has any questions about DBW or wants to know more, feel free to reach out.

here is a link to our entire DBW collection: https://outsidergarage.com/collections/drive-by-wire/Drive-By-Wire-(DBW)

 

- Steve

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485255-drive-by-wire-conversion-options/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 10 months later...

I recently got their dbw 74mm throttle body and pedal kit. It is sensational quality especially the wiring harnesses. Unfortunately I can’t answer u about the fitment to stock inlet manifold as I’m going Rahjab Racing forward plenum. Only one thing to be careful of is understand u have to pay gst and import fees if your purchase is over $1,000 in one shipment.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea my thought was tighter engine when hot is more load a poor ground connection can't take. On that note, I had time to check my driveshaft verical alignment tonight, it's +2 and -2 at either end, so thats perfect and how I had set it up last year. What would be the easiest way to check horizontal alignment between my diff and transmission? I can think of a few ways but they're all complicated and I feel like I'm overthinking it. I'm hoping it's that as I can't see any other reason why I have developed driveline vibration since I put the motor back in. 
    • Thank god. I thought I was the only one, nobody seems to mention this (cause nobody really goes this far in Sedan land). The car's track is 10mm wider at the rear, which explains why the rears sit a little further out for the same size wheels. There's not really many options in widebody land for sedans anyway - People will just use whatever came out of the box and then buy wheels/spacers to suit. To get it perfect you'll likely need custom wheels with custom offsets if you really want to get it perfect which is what I plan to do, but I also plan to utilize more of the inboard space for tyres at the rear... which is also something nobody ever seems to do.... OR my maths have failed me after 20,000 attempts and I'm about to make huge mistakes. 
    • What colour is that?  A mate of mine went red/black on his SLR5000 tribute recently also.  And yes, also glad to see this still progressing albeit slowly. 
    • found a company that makes a flat gauge face 3-d printed mounting base kit to eliminate the dished style gauges. if anyone else is looking to do the same https://www.dashfreaks.de/shop/flat-dials-holder-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-gtt/    
    • I installed my link ecu shortly after. But car ran fine with stock ecu and r35 coils, just had the traction control and slip lights on.
×
×
  • Create New...