Jump to content
SAU Community

2003 Nissan Skyline V35 250gt - Japanese To English

jaccj
 Share

Recommended Posts

jaccj Newbie

jaccj

Posted
Posted

Hello Guys,

This forum is new to me and I am writing in this forum hoping to find some answers. Recently i bought 2003 Skyline v35 250GT Automatic which is run about 75k. The car is awesome and drives really good except for single problem - JAPANESE NAVIGATION, TV, RADIO and DVD PLAYER. The previous owner dint bother much in playing around this Japanese system and does not know much about how to operate them. Seems like all they cared was getting a good ride!!! Now since I am a bit young and love music and entertain my mates while driving, I would like to get these systems working

I have a few questions and any info would be much appreciated;

1) I have two screens. One screen is on the top of dash and slides out if pressed down. Below the screen there are some Japanese buttons with joystick. How do I turn this screen on? What is this screen used for ? While doing some research I found that I can view trip, fuel, consumption etc information. But how do I turn this thing on ? Will this screen be Japanese ?

2) The second is Pioneer screen which is below AirCon controls. This screen turns on as I start the car and seems like this is where the navigation and radio is displayed - unfortunately in japanese with japanese radio stations. I can tilt this screen out and behind this screen I can see CD slot and a SD card slot. I inserted a CD but not sure how to play it with the Japanese language touch screen. Any idea what the SD card slot is for ? Would I be able to play music from SD Cards ?

3) There is a DVD player on the dash next to the passenger seat. What is the purpose of this DVD player ? Research tells me that this DVD player is used for loading navigation maps ? Is that true ? I was thinking this DVD player plays DVD movies !!!!

4) I am from Perth area and if anybody can share any contacts (from anywhere in Australia) so that I can have a chat and if possible convert this Japanese system into English, would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Jac

[email protected]

0424845550

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...