Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2x Evo 2 seats sitting at friend's house doing nothing...

GoJiRa to the rescue orders 2x Sparco seat rails specifically designed for the R33 and Evo 2 from Japan.

Jap guys laugh and roll eyes about being hassled so often about them being specifically for an Evo 2

$1,100 and a magnificently made set of Evo 1 rails turn up on mates doorstep.

Jap Sparco guys now say there is no difference between Evo 1 and Evo 2.

2x Evo 2 seats and 2x Evo 1 seat rails sitting at friend's house doing nothing...

:cheers:

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They cost what they cost. Brand new brand name parts cost a lot.

Admittedly shipping was a large part of the cost.

As you can see from my post early in this thread I was naively confident

that I would get what I asked for.

Sparco ones cost ¥28,000 for an R33/Evo 2 for the "low" version...

http://www.sparco.co.jp/contents/ecatalog/...t/matching1.htm

When they come here I am considering going off to a metal workshop type place to get copies made up...

p.s. The Evo2 is meant for those of us more gifted in the ass department (__|__)

yes and darrinspencer was dreaming thinking it would only cost $50 to send those other seat rails from japan to aus when i paid $40 to bring them over from brisbane to mel by road, not air freight which would have cost $175

So i guess i got a bargain with those BRIDE rails i got then as they fit perfectly in the r33

So you can send those sparco rails back and get in my group buy then :cheers:

Yep you got a nice little deal. Admittedly these are not a total loss. The side plates just need to be extended 15mm each side so I will see how much that costs ;) The actual rail part is fine and looks pretty much exactly the same as your Bride one. The sideplates bolt on to the rail. I expected the rail and side to be a single part (luckily they weren't)

But with the cost, as always here people know a mate of a mate who got one for $2 and want to get it off you for $1.99. :(

re: Group Buy - Hahahah no way, these rails have caused me enough trouble, they are going in this car whether they want to or not :cheers:

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...