Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah it was. I havent actually taken the car back from the workshop since being rebuilt. Looks like a problem since the car has been first started as we havent really put any kms on it

Maybe it's time to tear it down if you are 10000% sure you got all the air out

How did you say you bled it?

Yep that's the plan it looks like

Tried a few different methods.

- let it idle and keep the revs around 3 to draw in water into the motor.

- Kept the heater on all the time

- after a few mins, switch it off and let it cool down

- Opened the bleeder valve with the car off and with the car on until steady streams of fluid came out. Not once were there bubbles or broken stream. Water seemed to be in the head at all times from the get go

- Tried jacking the front up as high as we could so the radiator was higher than the motor and repeated the processes.

- tried having a bottle cut open with fluid in it, sitting in the radiator as we were idling and revving to see if it would suck more in. kept sucking in a lot and when it finally didnt want anymore, it stopped.

- Tried a method with the radiator cap on and the car on and letting air out of the bleeder valve, which none came out.

- Drove the car down the street, around a few corners and up a few hills to just see if we could push any air pockets out

- Used a vacuum machine to suck any air out, nothing really did

- had the car running for a few mins, stopped it, let it cool, tried letting air out, and repeated that process many times over a few days incase things needed to settle.

Nothing we did made a dent in the issue.

Yep it was, it would get worse and better as the temp rapidly cooled and threw out the hot water. As the motor got a burst of cooler water, the hot water coming out would cause disruption in the water in the bottle and move it around a bit

To be honest didnt check the overflow so i dont know

Did you have the cap open, with a funnel or bottle cut open pushed into filler neck, car running and undo bleed nipples? While adding coolant.

Exactly what we did. Def sucked in some fluid in. But just a steady stream coming out of the bleeder

Ok this might sound really, really stupid but its why i asked if its been freshly rebuilt.

Pull your thermostat back out, get a mirror and torch and under the thermostat they should have replaced (if they pulled out all your welsh plugs) a small welsh plug inside the block, its sits in the block under the thermostat, from memory its around 20mm big (guessing).

There is a very real possibility that they may have knocked them all out to clean the block and forgotten there was one in there, its easy to miss for someone who does not know RB's or got the apprentice to knock them all in.

Yeah i know its a pain in the butt, but you never know......

Your looking to see if this plug was put back in, its at the top center of the crappy pic i took, way down under the thermostat, behind in a second casting.

DDMYVt.jpg

He is sure he put them in but was questioning to ensure that he did. Could be another reason he wants to pull the motor apart

But the above helps. It is something new to investigate at least! Thanks!

Just remember there are 2 open holes and a third one that the plug goes into.

One big one that the thermostat outside sits in with the casing over it held down by the 3 thermostat cover bolts.

One that the thermostat end rear/base sits over which is left open and is slightly bigger (by only a few mm) than the welsh plug under it.

Then the third hole which is the deepest and smallest, that one gets the welsh plug.....

Edited by GTRPSI

We just had 2 Koyo radiators fail from new in a 34 ,didnt have as severe issues as you ,but still did all the changes and checks you did as we didnt think it was a radiator issue .Both seemed to be partially blocked and both split and leaked with in 2 hours of driving ,put a new Blitz in and happy days ?

Did you have similar issues with temps rising and falling or was it just a constant rise and not coming back down?

it's interesting. Few other standard gtrs we were comparing with over the last week. The standard ones you could start up, drive out of the driveway and see it gained 10 degrees and heat would just slowly rise every min the car was on. Mine, well it just stayed cold for so much longer, temps wont budge, then all of a sudden a lots of heat!

Pulled the motor out of the car on Saturday. Going to pull the head off it hopefully today and get a good look at what is going on. Hopefully it's something little that has been missed!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...