Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

check this out:

http://www.mkiv.com/tmp/emanage/index.html

a) similar things to a unichip

c) dunno

d) it kills an SAFC is properly tuned but this depends on C....

e) $420? (nengun price) -this price is slightly cheap but you may need to get the extra stuff. My friend bought one... shipped, with software, all additional sensors he paid $1000. This was from perfectrun.

In the end he sold it and bought a Power FC if thats anything to go by :)

Well the AFC only does one thing... control air/fuel. You can do all sorts of stuff with the e-manage like what the Apexi ITC does... or control larger injectors or change to map sensors.... more similar to a PowerFC...

but in the end with all the modules added up its more worthwhile, more proven and theres a lot more tuners for the Power FC.

I also considered this option too but its out the window now...

Originally posted by adam 32

can anyone give me any further details on this?

a)what does it control?

b)what application is it suited to?

c)fitting/tuning ease/cost?

d)how does it compare to other piggy-backs ie S-AFC

e)would you buy one if someone gave you $420? (nengun price)

cheers guys!

adam

a) if you have the E-01 and ignition harness -- EVERYTHING! Fuel maps ; ignition maps ; boost ( across specific rpm ) ; it has a funky glowing screen and takes Flash memory cards so you can store settings for different envionments.It can allow for the running of a MAP sensor instead of the AFM as well.

B) Trust have a 1500HP RB26 running it, there are many people in the US with it on WRXs and Supras etc.

c) The interface is very easy to understand, I think it looks easier than most and with the hand controller you can fine tune on the road.

d) It compares fairly well if you are just getting the basic e-manage box for $415AUS, given you can upgrade it. However in the full house version $910AUS (E-01) + $415 e-manage + $45 ignition harness, it stands up there with PowerFC , it is certainly better value for money.

e) yes I'd buy one if someone gave me $420.

BTW the unichip isn't in the same league as the e-amange or PFC.

Originally posted by INASNT

s-afc aint nothing special, the f con should have way more functions and points of adjustment than the s-afc

The f-con adam found is the pfc f-con, not the f-conV. The pfc is strictly fuel only, using a harness to talk directly to injecors and has no other functions. The ROM is programmed from factory and can only be replaced by ROM options from HKS. I consider is to be far inferior to the s-afc because it lacks the ability to modify ignition timing, something the s-afc can do as a by product of modifing air flow meter values. Ignition timing is where the majority of drivablity gains are made on a RB25DET.

Originally posted by Gradenko

The f-con adam found is the pfc f-con, not the f-conV. The pfc is strictly fuel only, using a harness to talk directly to injecors and has no other functions. The ROM is programmed from factory and can only be replaced by ROM options from HKS. I consider is to be far inferior to the s-afc because it lacks the ability to modify ignition timing, something the s-afc can do as a by product of modifing air flow meter values. Ignition timing is where the majority of drivablity gains are made on a RB25DET.

huh?

modifying the the air flow input on the s-afc does nothing to alter any timing!

u need the s-itc for ignition adjustment

Yes, it does affect timing. S-ITC allows for custom timing changes, but thats not to say that the S-AFC doesn't allow for any timing changes.

The factory computer uses the AFM as its main sensor to determine engine load. Measuring the amount of air ingested allows it to switch to an appopiate fuel ignition map. That is, a map that defines fuel and ignition timing. From factory, R33s are programmed to dump a whole load of fuel and knock back timing any time it breathes more air than in stock tune. Its a safeguard against detonation but removes all the fun making power.

Example: lighlty modified 'lines are always running rich and have a flat spot over 5000rpm. Fooling the computer into thinking the engine isn't breathing as much at a certain rpm (using a s-afc to modify afm voltage), relaxes safeguards and allows the computer to switch to a mapping with aggressive timing and less fuel.

Perhaps you should read up on senors in an EFI system and how they contribute engine tuning before you enter ECU related discussions. Sorry, but I dislike misinfomation on forums.

the main point of the s-afc is to lean out the mixtures hence make more power, true the timing might change when reading different afm inputs but that much?, the factory ignition maps r shit house to say the least!

y then can u achive power upgrade with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, similiar to s-afc when u r just leaning the mixtures out when on boost? that doesnt affect any afm signal.

s-afc mainly gets power increase from running smoother and leaner fuel mixtures

Oh dear, your trying to push the point by using overwhelming ignorance and fallacy based logic. Charming.

I love the fuel pressure regulator argument. Note, I said driveability is gained from timing changes. Power is made from the right afr's but whats the point if timing is continuely retarded and its a slug to drive? Fuel alone isn't going to fix problems inherent in the factory ecu's program.

I'm going to assume your not trying to favourbly compare a pressure reg to a s-afc, because a blanket change in fuel delivery regardless of revs is hardly the most sensible way to go about it. Plus, its the same price as a 2nd hand 1st gen s-afc, which is orders of magnitude more tuneable.

s-afc mainly gets power increase from running smoother and leaner fuel mixtures

The S-AFC has no direct control over fuel mixtures or delivery, the factory ecu makes its own decisions! Lets not turn this into EFI Systems 101. I'm done.

i dont want to start sumthing either!

i have been at many dyno sessions, including with my car tune and without the s-afc my a/f ratios were all over the place, then with the s-afc tuned it kept a roughly straight 12.1 a/f ratio, by adjusting -/+ %!

so u do have control over your mixtures.

dont get on your high horse and thing u know it all!

:mad:

Originally posted by INASNT

i have been at many dyno sessions

That really is excellent. I'll add it to the running tally of how many dyno sessions SAU members go to. It counts +5 points towards their overall "I Know How To Tune" rating.

Originally posted by INASNT

without the s-afc my a/f ratios were all over the place, then with the s-afc tuned it kept a roughly straight 12.1 a/f ratio, by adjusting -/+ %!

Well! That proves it then. S-AFCs really do change air-fuel ratios. Please, someone bring this man the "Stating the Obvious" award!

Originally posted by Gradenko

Well! That proves it then. S-AFCs really do change air-fuel ratios. Please, someone bring this man the "Stating the Obvious"  award!

bowdown.gif master of tuning and efi systems!!

i know it intercepts the signal to trick ecu so u can run better af's!

either way s-afc offer f*uck all tuneability compared to a standalone ecu!

if i had the $$ at the time i bought the s-afc i would have got an power fc.

Ladies, Ladies, Ladies...

I think what gradenkos getting at is the AFC changes the signals youre AFM puts out, making youre ECU think you are getting more or less air flow.

The Fuel maps the ECU uses are the same, its just fooled into thinking theres more/less air so it puts more/less fuel in. The ECU still controls mixture, youre just tricking it.

Most skylines run rich, leaning the mixture out makes youre ECU think you have less airflow, and you arent working the engine as hard, so as a by product, the timing stays advanced, rather than being reduced at higher revs (it gets rid of the infamous 5000rpm flat spot).

Its people like me who have to make the ecu think theres more air, so i get more fuel who are disadvantaged by this, cause my timing is not as advanced as it could be.

I am the one who needs the ITC!

I know Gradenko has done a lot of research into mods, thats why he ran a 13.8 with the small amount of mods he has done, he knows what things do, and how to apply them. I reckon hes spent more on speeding fines than mods.

Originally posted by INASNT

bowdown.gif master of tuning and efi systems!!

Sorry, wasn't my intention to put that image across. Like most of us here, this is just a hobby. Only two things upset me on forums, one is rice boys tarnishing the Skyline name, and the other is misinfomation (sometimes also seen in the form of opinion passed as fact).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...