Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just got a modified standard ECU put in my car.

I've been umming and ahhing about the Greddy emanage and other things but the opportunity to put this in just came up so I went for it.

It's got the limiters taken off it and I dunno what else. Details are a bit sketchy. So far I have noticed that the power delivery is so much smoother than before. I think it's because before the standard ECU was constantly making corrections due to the higher boost.

I would say that the seatofthepants-o-meter is registering a 10-15 kw gain which isn't a lot but the new smoothness means that it feels, and should be, faster. When you floor it in 2nd (or any other gear for that matter but I want to keep my license) you are not sitting at peak power the whole time. By getting rid of the tiny little hesitations as the standard ECU corrected and re-corrected it gets to redline faster. I've hit the rev limiter in 1st gear twice now by accident which I normally never do. (bad me)

So boost cut is gone, speed cut is gone (yay for the Eastern Creek straight) and it only took about half an hour to learn my driving habits and give the extra power over.

Beauty is that the Nissan consult can still be plugged into it and the trannie has no issues whatsoever. I presume I'm going to blow up my diff now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45928-info-for-gtt-tiptronic-owners/
Share on other sites

Abo Bob,

you legend, I have been doing lots of research and I couldn't get a straight answer on whether or not it would really work, it seemed the only other option is a SAFC2 which seems outdated now.

What other mods do you have, what boost were you and are you running now?

I have FMIC, 3" exhaust and dump pipe, pod filter, boost at just under 1 bar (14/15psi). I am getting a bit over 150rwkw which seems low due to mods but I seem to be running very rich, I am told that the emanage (excluding ignition harness which I am told won't work on the autos) should give 30-40rwkw if I run 17/18psi when the boost cut is changed? What are your thoughts? Do the R34 turbo's cope with this amount of boost? or does the nylon wheel melt?

Also, as AFRO asked, what did it set you back, and where did you get it done.

Cheers

Cost me a grand as an exchange from Powerplay but it's a bit of a one off at the moment. Give them a call in a few weeks or about a month and mention my car (they know it).

Hunter - That does seem low. I had 162 with less boost. I have Nismo panel filter, CES split dump/front pipe, 3" cat, Fujitsubo cat back which is fairly quiet and an AVC-R for boost.

Just went out for a blat and turned the boost up to 1 bar just to see. Seemed to cope fine although the turbo seemed to be surging a little. I think that's because I don't know how to adjust the boost duty cycle on the AVC-R.

If you consistantly run 1 bar something in your turbo will let go so I'd stick to 0.85 if I were you.

ok,, umm i dunno if this is meant to be correct or not,,

but i got mine dynoed ,, and i was getting 177rwkw, and mine is stock!

except exhaust,,,, standard boost and all,, even down to the factory air filter,,

but it was running a bit crap lately and ecu has error's 17 & 46,, might get it dynoed again,, to make sure everything is running ok,,

it was dynoed in shootout mode,,

edit:- mine is manual,,

AFRO

Abo Bob,

Did you get all the harnesses put in, ie ignition etc... or just the fuel component? I am still considering getting the whole emanage kit and I am assured by Advan (the Trust distributor) that all the components work with the 34 auto and the coil frying problem has been addressed with the latest sw revision.

Now that you have been running with it for a little while is it still running well, is the auto box coping ok? Feeling any faster? I am told one would expect around 40-50 rwkw, what do you think?

Cheers

I don't have the emanage. Advan need to get their story straight. I've been told by one of them there that it will work fine but that you can't use the ignition harness and by another that he "doesn't recommend putting it in there at all."

I have a modified standard ecu.

So far I would say that I'm a little concerned about the auto's power handling abilities. The flaring that I used to get between 1st and 2nd gear when cold only now seems to need to more warming up to work properly. If I redline it however, it drops timing or something, does a little fart out the back and kicks into 2nd beautifully.

I'm going to look into changing my fluid.

Good to hear there is something else out there....the second I get another e-manage ignition harness though I'll put the diodes in and give you guys the details....hoping to get a harness next week...unless one of you guys has one laying around you could sell to me?

Yeah the flaring is easily sorted by a good warm-up....once the car hits temp you don't ever get it.

Good to hear there is something else out there....the second I get another e-manage ignition harness though I'll put the diodes in and give you guys the details....hoping to get a harness next week...unless one of you guys has one laying around you could sell to me?

Yeah the flaring is easily sorted by a good warm-up....once the car hits temp you don't ever get it.

There are 2 problems with the EManage in autos, the first is the coil frying problem, but that happens to manuals as well. The real problem is it removes the ECU control over ignition on gearchanges, this means you end up with very jerky gearchanges. Plus, with no power cut, the gearbox will wear much faster. Simplkistically this is because the EManage has no gearshift logic.

I believe there may be a cure for problem #1, but I don't see anyway for problem #2 to be overcome with the current logic.

So I am looking forward to your results. :D

how did they do it abo bob? modified standard ecu for skylines. thought that was impossible as no one worked out how to do it properly or am i thinking of r33 gtst when it comes to chipping the ecu?? SydneyKid, help.

if not looks like il be having a chat to powerplay in the not to distant future...

how did they do it abo bob? modified standard ecu for skylines. thought that was impossible as no one worked out how to do it properly or am i thinking of r33 gtst when it comes to chipping the ecu?? SydneyKid, help.

if not looks like il be having a chat to powerplay in the not to distant future...

probably a daughterboard.

the japs have been doing it for ages for the 34.

probably a daughterboard.

the japs have been doing it for ages for the 34.

yeah the ecu requires a new chip, the in the 32s you can just download to the existing eprom but the 33 and 34s require a seperate chip.

  • 3 weeks later...

Well I just did a dyno run to find out the following:

1. 189.4 rwkw at 0.8 bar which is up from 162 rwkw at 0.85 bar before the ECU.

2. I'm not sure how to read air fuel ratios. It's between 10.9 and 11.65. Which is leaner?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...