Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Evc 1 Questions

Timtim123

By Timtim123,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Timtim123 Explorer

Timtim123

Posted
Posted

Hello, the gts-t I just recently bought has an HKS EVC installed. The actual controller is sitting in the center console not hooked up. I just got around to looking into the wiring for it beneath the steering wheel and had a couple of questions. The car has an aftermarket boost gauge installed and under full throttle, is only reading about 0.25 bar. This seems pretty low to me.

First question -- Does the set boost from the EVC remain even when the controller is not plugged in? If so, I'm wondering if perhaps the previous owner has the boost low. Either that, or I have a leak, or the gauge isn't reading correctly. The car feels like it's pulling decent and boost is definitely building, however this is my first experience with a skyline/rb20, so I'm not sure what is 'normal'.

Second question -- There are two harnesses on the back of the controller. Only one looks to plug into anything under the dash. Any idea what the other harness could be? I can post pictures if it would help anything.

Any help is much appreciated. I searched around online but couldn't find any clear answers. Hoping the boost is just set low on the car so I'm not chasing a leak/trying to fix the gauge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459707-hks-evc-1-questions/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Stock wastegate pressure on RB25 is 5 psi. That is ~0.33 bar, which would/could read as 0.25bar on a shitty aftermarket gauge. That's how your boost is so low.

The stock boost control solenoid on an R525 will bleed some off to get you 7 psi. You will not get that if it has not been re-instated upon removal of the EVC.

If the EVC is not hooked up, then it cannot do anything to control boost. You will get wastegate pressure.

Why do you not google up the manual for the EVC so you can see the wiring diagrams and looms for yourself?

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Does it have the stepping motor part in the engine bay area? Black box should have HKS written on it.

One set of wires go to the stepping motor, the other set are for ignition, earth, and power etc.

I'm talking from a IV knowledge so yours could be a bit different but you still need both components - the electronic in cabin controller and the stepping motor that controls the wastegate.

Try this:

Timtim123 Explorer

Timtim123

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you both. I just found installation/setup instructions so I'll read that over. I'm reading a few places that people are saying 7 to 10psi stock for the rb20's. Mine's only reading about 0.25 bar though (~3.6psi). Like GTSBoy mentioned though, the shitty aftermarket gauge is likely reading low though.

Trident, it does have the motor under the hood as well. I did see that video also before I posted here, but mine looks to have a second harness pretty close looking to the first one as shown in that video. Can't seem to find anything about what that second harness is but I'm assuming it goes to the stepping motor then. The first harness, which has a connection that I found, powers it on and it sounds like the stepping motor just buzzes constantly. I'll look around some more though and see what I can find.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

RB20 wastegate pressure is 10psi natively. You might have a car that someone has messed about with and stolen the (desirable) 10psi actuator for use on an RB25, leaving an (undesirable) 5 psi actuator on the RB20. With a boost controller it would still work up to 13-14 psi anyway, so not a huge problem.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Also have a look at this:

http://1jzmerc.com/hks-faq/accessories/hks-evc

bottom of the page is manuals for most of them [knew I'd seen it somewhere for mine just had to find it again, been a couple of years lol]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...