Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What used to be a rolling 15 year and older rule (which would have allowed 2000 and older cars now) was changed almost 10 years ago to a pre-1989 rule, so these days you can only import 1988 and older models .. the exception to this is newer cars which are on the SEVS compliance list but I suspect this is not what you are looking at really?

The short answer is 1988 and older only.

Edited by kakimoto33

What used to be a rolling 15 year and older rule (which would have allowed 2000 and older cars now) was changed almost 10 years ago to a pre-1989 rule, so these days you can only import 1988 and older models .. the exception to this is newer cars which are on the SEVS compliance list but I suspect this is not what you are looking at really?

The short answer is 1988 and older only.

Ok. Thank you. What about this

"2. SEVS. Strict regulations on condition and modifications. For cars <15 years old. Only cars eligible on the SEVS Register can be brought in, and if there is a RAWS who can comply the car. Check the SEVS Register first to see if your car is available, and then here for a list of RAWS workshops to see if they can comply your vehicle."

Are Skylines (R32-R34) eligible? Is it possible to import R34 and how many different fees and taxes one should pay to bring a car from Japan?

Look here first to see if the make / model is on the SEVS eligibility list:

http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/sevs/sevsindex.htm

Then search here to make sure there is a RAWS workshop with compliance for that model:

http://raws.infrastructure.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RAWPubSearch.asp

If it's on both lists then you can import them under the SEVS laws, and that does include R32, R33 and R34 in certain variants but there are other criteria also, for example no cars with previous accident repair history, no modifications, etc

Vehicles being imported are subject to 5% import duty and 10% GST, however cars over 30 years old are exempt from import duty so you only pay 10% GST on them.

If you tell us what R34 you are keen on getting then I can show you some recently sold examples and give you a cost breakdown of the import costs to get one similar here yourself?

Edited by kakimoto33

Thank you for info.

I found Skylines in the first list.

How and who will be researching that there were no accident and repair history, modifications, etc. If it is japanese exporter, or japanese auction, do they provide any documents proving that the car has no accidents and repairs. Who will decide if a front bumer or muffler is original or aftermarket?

Any other additional payments except for import duty and GST? I think there are some port charges for unloading a vehicle?

So when choosing Skyline I must be sure that it is clear from any modifications. What happens if a car comes to my port and inspector decides that it was modified?

If you were going through me to source and import the car then I would have our guys inspect the car in person to ensure it meets the criteria for import to Australia. Once the car gets here it will be up to the RAWS compliance workshop to determine if it meets the regulations or not, and that is done by matching part numbers to original specification generally so it's a fairly easy thing to make sure it's correct. It's nothing to do with Customs or anyone else at the time of import. If you choose to buy a car with modifications they can simply be removed prior to compliance so there is no real problem there, it's really just important to make sure we are buying you a good car.

There are many costs involved in importing a car to Australia. You will not need to know or understand them all as we will take care of the process for you and make sure all costs are correct and the car gets here safely and as cheaply as possible. All you really need to do is decide what you want to buy, wait for us to present you with possibly suitable cars and we can go from there. You set the 'landed and complied' budget in Australian Dollars and we can calculate backwards from there to work out all import costs and set a bidding limit in Japanese Yen to get it landed here within your budget if we win the auction.

I hope this all makes sense, but if not then please let me know your questions so I can clarify further?

I saw your facebook page and it represents nice examples of jdm classics. They are great.

First I thought to deal with japanese exporter. There are many GTRs there. Their prices look competitive even with taxes. But as I understand I will need to do all paperwork and compliance check myself that can be an issue, especially for a newcomer in Australia :(

Thank you for info.

I found Skylines in the first list.

How and who will be researching that there were no accident and repair history, modifications, etc. If it is japanese exporter, or japanese auction, do they provide any documents proving that the car has no accidents and repairs. Who will decide if a front bumer or muffler is original or aftermarket?

Any other additional payments except for import duty and GST? I think there are some port charges for unloading a vehicle?

So when choosing Skyline I must be sure that it is clear from any modifications. What happens if a car comes to my port and inspector decides that it was modified?

If you're keen on importing a car from Japan to Australia - honestly, check out my blog as I've detailed every single step of the process @ www.v35skyline.com

Let me know what you think, and if you have any questions I'm happy to help out :)

What used to be a rolling 15 year and older rule (which would have allowed 2000 and older cars now) was changed almost 10 years ago to a pre-1989 rule, so these days you can only import 1988 and older models .. the exception to this is newer cars which are on the SEVS compliance list but I suspect this is not what you are looking at really?

The short answer is 1988 and older only.

Could not have put it better myself :)

If you're keen on importing a car from Japan to Australia - honestly, check out my blog as I've detailed every single step of the process @ www.v35skyline.com

Let me know what you think, and if you have any questions I'm happy to help out :)

Oh! A big story. Will be reading thouroughly. Thank you. Did you buy through japanese auction or from japanese dealer?

Wow. Is it free to buy vehicles through auction? Or must this still be done through a licensed dealer? Do they have english interface?

You won't be bidding yourself, speak to Ben Lippa from J-Spec Imports, he'll be able to help you ;)

I've used him three times in the past year to import cars for myself and family and I've been incredibly happy with the level of service he's provided, and the cars he's sourced for me at auction :D

Edited by Sikahalv

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
×
×
  • Create New...