Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Wanted to get people's opinion on how to best/easiest way to do this.

Im using an eboost which is mounted on the turbo side of the engine.

The lines off the solenoid go under the inlet manifold, seemingly into the abyss.

Am i better off using some long nose pliers and reaching under the manifold yo undo the hoses from there or should i remove the whole line around the engine?

Are there any hardline mounting tabs under the manifold?

Iv looked into the workshop manual,the lines dont look like they tee off into the manifold...or am i wrong?

Thanks

You have to run a line from the plenum to the steel hose that runs around the back of engine, I can't remember off the top of my head if it is top or middle hose

If you pull both off the get off one of the wastegate lines at the actuator and get someone to blow into it then feel for which one has air coming out of it and connect to that one

I put my solenoids under the brake boost for less heat and less visibility then run hose from plenum to solenoid then from solenoid to steel line

There is one tab on intake side that has bolt that goes through it then through head and bolts into block, there are three lines ( 2 x air and 1 x water ) that are connected to each other

I will also suggest getting something better then an Eboost

You have to run a line from the plenum to the steel hose that runs around the back of engine, I can't remember off the top of my head if it is top or middle hose

If you pull both off the get off one of the wastegate lines at the actuator and get someone to blow into it then feel for which one has air coming out of it and connect to that one

I put my solenoids under the brake boost for less heat and less visibility then run hose from plenum to solenoid then from solenoid to steel line

There is one tab on intake side that has bolt that goes through it then through head and bolts into block, there are three lines ( 2 x air and 1 x water ) that are connected to each other

I will also suggest getting something better then an Eboost

thanks for the response. i ended up having the battery and cooler pipe off the car to create some room.

you can juuuuuuuust see where the hoses connect to the hard lines. managed to get some pliers in there to shift the hose clamp, then i just yanked off the hose.

plugged them up by looping them with some random vac hose i had. havent started the car yet as im doing a few other things before i put it all back together.

i bought the car with an eboost lol, its primitive but it works fine! when i get a haltech ill get a boost control kit too.. im due time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...