Jump to content
SAU Community

Removal Of Aac Valve Under The Plenum

CSB

By CSB,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

CSB Apprentice

CSB

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Apologies as I don't often post here but this forum is easily the best when it comes to working on your own rb26.

Anyway I had my engine rebuilt and since it was out the car I didn't want all the aac valve etc and associated pipework. Reason being is when it was installed before, the pipes had kinks in them plus it would be slow to start when hot which I'm sure has got something to do with the valve.

I'm running a stock manifold with stock throttles. I'm planning to go down the link g4 route to control the idle. I did try and search on how to do away with the valve but there were no clear instructions.

The garage that I used T'eed the brake and clutch pipes from the manifold to the throttle. This made the car hunt at 2k revs which was ridiculous and loud.

After asking advice on a different forum and visiting a tuner who didn't even tell me the solution or help me in anyway (unless I paid), I tried to do it myself, albeit the incorrect way. I blocked off the throttle vacuum and connected the brake and clutch to the manifold. This is wrong as the brakes were solid with no vacuum. This did make it idle at around 500 revs but didn't stall. (better than 2k revs)

So attempting it again I want to make sure the below is the correct method:

- connect brake and clutch to each vac from the throttle bodies

- block off the two main pipes under the plenum

- the other small outlet from the plenum can be connected as normal?

Thanks in advance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...