Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Purchased this Series 2 R33 stock in 2011 and have since invested a lot of time and money transforming it into nothing short of a daily street machine. The exterior and engine bay has been kept clean and simple so as not to attract too much unwanted attention.


The Garrett turbo and custom camshafts have been sized to provide excellent response in the mid range with plenty of top-end power. Suspension compenents have also been upgraded to provide better traction and handling.


Selling as I've been offered a company car and it's time to move on.


Priced to sell. First to see will buy.


$11,000


Available for inspection:

Castle Hill - 9am - 5pm, Mon - Fri

Oatlands - All other times


Call/text Richard 0400 129 022


For insurance reasons unless a deposit is made I will be doing the driving


Engine:

Tuned by Unigroup Engineering - 279 rwKw on PULP98

APEXi Power FC w/ new style hand controller

Genuine Garrett GTX3071R turbo

Blitz Dual Solenoid Spec-R boost controller

Custom camshafts (Unigroup Engineering special)

Splitfire Coilpacks

Plazmaman FMIC

Plazmaman (Turbosmart) BOV - plumbed back

Custom turbo-back exhaust (4" dump, 3" cat-back)

Genuine SMB Muffler (stainless steel) w/ twin tips angle cut


Suspension & Drivetrain

Genuine 17" x 9" R33 GTR wheels (Federal 595 RS-R semi slicks on front)

Exedy HD clutch

HSD Coilovers - (full height & damper adjustment)

Strut brace

Front caster rods

Front camber arms

Rear camber arms

Rear traction rods

Pineapple bushes (alloy)

HICAS eliminator kit

Factory Nismo rear strut brace


Body & Interior:

Factory nismo front lip

Genuine Nismo clear turn signal

Aftermarket stereo unit w/ reverse camera

Genuine Nismo gear knob

Factory floor mats


Misc:

HID headlights

A/C nice and cold for summer

Serviced every 5000kms

post-85393-0-59882900-1446366936_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-64708600-1446366940_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-04291500-1446366944_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-84478000-1446366946_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-98190800-1446366949_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-76914500-1446366952_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-64863300-1446366955_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-98459000-1446366957_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-69131800-1446366960_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-43404300-1446366963_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-47013800-1446366983_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-72007300-1446366985_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-49984200-1446366988_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-61430600-1446366991_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-39637800-1446366994_thumb.jpg

post-85393-0-24058700-1446366997_thumb.jpg

Edited by Richard GTST
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460719-96-r33-gts-t-series-2-manual/
Share on other sites

Spot on, just under 150,000kms

No sorry it hasn't been engineered. It wouldn't be too far from being compliant, main thing would be passing the emissions test (ie compliance cat and emissions tune)

Also, found the dyno sheet. It actually cracked the 280 mark. Will post when I get my scanner working...

Thanks for the interest!

Dyno printout. As you can see, plenty of meat in the mid range

Car also has

Alarm, immobiliser, turbo-timer, keyless entry

post-85393-0-92140700-1446461385_thumb.png

Edited by Richard GTST

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...