Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Knock Sensor Wiring Stripped -advice Please

malialipali

By malialipali,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

malialipali Enthusiast

malialipali

Posted
Posted (edited)

So I just did the belts on the stagea and low and behold whilst flashing the light about I see some bare wires.

I'm assuming it's the knock sensor , it's a two wire plug between the v under the intake. Can be seen from the front in the opening between the heads. One wire is bare other looks to be cut. (Looks like mice got to it :-/)

Car does not ping.

So my question is. Does the intake have to go in order to get to it and fix the wiring ? If so should I just do the rocker cover gaskets(passenger side weeps only just) and plugs 143xxxkm. Or am I going beyond what's needed to get to the knock sensor.

Car goes beautifully just last weekend did 1000km round trip and got 720km out of a tank (ultimate ) with no hesitation what so ever even snapped the speedo on a overtake.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Edited by malialipali
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Surprisingly common, I have had to repair a few. I should have a spare knock/injector loom here somewhere if you can't find something local.

Yes the lower plenum needs to come off to replace it.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Nice and warm Dale, for many hours. Smart little f*krs would just nest it out with rags and grass, anything they can find to make a cosy and protected home.

As soon as the door unlocked they would know to scurry away.

malialipali Enthusiast

malialipali

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Surprisingly common, I have had to repair a few. I should have a spare knock/injector loom here somewhere if you can't find something local.

Yes the lower plenum needs to come off to replace it.

Is the wiring shielded? If not I can repair the plug thats not an issue. If it is shielded then yes I would need the part.

Is there a part # ? Same as the VQ35s? by any chance. Is this the guy I'm looking for https://www.z1motorsports.com/oxygen-and-knock-sensors/z1-motorsports/350z-g35-vq35de-knock-sensor-sub-harness-p-5833.html?osCsid=keol7gu21kictn9cop24pqrhb4

If I cant find anything by end of tomorrow, I'm happy to pay what it cost + express bag postage Scotty.

OK just did a quick google (currently at work so cant dedicate too much time) looks like 50ohm RG58U coax on the positive side. 99% confident I can repair it. So will give it a crack to repair the wire.

If the car ends up off the road for a few days so be it - ive got a spare.

Cheeky little feckers they are...

I was actually joking when I said looks like mice got to it o.O , now I find that this is actually true and common. WTH!

May as well dot the plugs since I'm gonna spend next Saturday over an engine bay.

Anything else I should to preventative wise. Not fussed on $ , I'm driving the car to Adelaide next month and need to make sure its healthy.

Thanks a bunch on the help All .

Edited by malialipali
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

You had better get it apart and see what's broken first, you may need the knock sensor too.

Yes, that loom looks similar, on ours it's wired into the injector harness, but you can simply run that one in addition to replace the chewed out part.

  • Like 1
malialipali Enthusiast

malialipali

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So spent most of the day (38C here today) over the engine bay listening to tunes and drinking beer.

Stripped the intake off, rigged up a hose to my wet and dry vac and vacuumed up sand/ grit, dirt 2 snail shells ??????? (where the hell do they come from) from around the intake before taking it apart.

Cleaned the intake sections with carb cleaner . Got the harness out and assesed. Looked like shit!. stripped it back de-pinned the connector. Soldered in new leads. Coax wire was perfect fit. Soldered the pins and reassembled the connector.

Knock sensor tested at 562K Ohm (well within the range). With the harness it tested at 559K Ohm still in range.

Did the spark plugs at the same time, who ever did the car last should be slapped !!! had Champion Platinums in there with a 14 (NGK4) heat range .... way too hot , guess they whacked in 350 plugs, electrodes were worn to heck too probably 1.4-1.5mm gap. Got some LFR6AIX.

Put it all together and the moment of truth, fired up first go. Went for a test run , Significant improvement on take off, tried stalling it up and lit up the rears ! never happened before.

I think I just thought these cars were good at WOT and sluggish otherwise......... proven wrong now. Very very happy with the improvement.

Thank you all for your help , Esp Scotty for telling me the whole intake needs to come out.

Total cost $123.70 including the plugs (had to buy the coax and I ran out of heatshrink)

Edited by malialipali
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • ARB26
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By ARB26 · Posted

      I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...