Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all. My first post on this forum, but i have been involved with cars, and forums, for a while. I live in the USA and only recently have Skyline R32's become legal to import. I purchased a 91 GTS4, but its auto and i would like to convert it to 5 speed.

From the info i gathered, I know the GTR box will go straight in. I just want to verify my parts list. I have yet to find a definitive "YES THATS IT" list anywhere verified by someone with experience.

GTR Box

Shift boot

Clutch/brake pedals

Clutch master cylinder

Clutch slave and lines

Clutch/flywheel/flywheel bolts

Manual Spigot bush

Manual Sandwich Plate

I have a few questions.

Are the RB20 manual sandwich plates different on the gtst and gts4/gtr? Also, what is this thing? Im going to assume it gets sandwiched between the engine and tranny. Correct if wrong.

The cross member is the same? (R32 GTR tranny going in if it matters)

Provided i connect the needed wires in order to start the car, the auto gts4 ecu will work.

Also if i missed anything please tell me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460928-1991-r32-gts4-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hi, I Have a 1993 A31 Cefiro SE4, i have done the Conversion, Your Gts4 and my SE4 are the same, So i can give you some pointers, The R33 GTR gearbox has better gearing, your original sandw plate will be fine, The only difference is the standerd plate does not have the half shaft cut out,The gtr half shaft is a bit bigger than yours. your auto drive shaft should or will bolt straight back on, mine did, The Oil feed lines will bolt straight back on to the gtr box, Change all the oil for the whole 4 wheel drive system so let the rear feed line drain, it will empty the pump on top of ya rear diff and ya oil container, mine is in the boot on the right side,Also the front diff and clutch plate OIl. Leave the speed sensor disconnected, you can connect the reversing light switch i think its the same, I think there was a bit of modification on the rear gearbox mount, Sorry i cant remember that one, Use a 10in Clutch and pressure plate, I USE THE PULL STYLE CLUTCH, Stranded gtr , Its has been good, It has let me down twice on super fast take offs ive spun it but its all in the way you let it go with the throttle, i dun the spins in the first 6mths after the conversion , have dun that for 4 years or so, I also change all my gearing to 4.1 as i want more mid n top end for the open road,250ks check my listing to see the other mods i have done, Oh yeh when you re oil the pump and lines to.to the rear of the g/box is were you bleed it from, Mine took ages to get pressure again but it kinda the norm, Mine has been working perfectly since, but that oil is 20 odd years old, e this burble will help you, Jamind

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...