Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i've got an r33 and last week the car lost so much power. when i put the foot all the way down, it just revs and basically goes nowhere. I've tried pumping it with injector cleaner, fuel system cleaner but nothing seems to work. If anybody has any ideas as to what may be the problem, could you please let me know.

Cheers,

Antony.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46282-power-loss-in-my-rb25de/
Share on other sites

its something to do with the clutch in the auto or it could be the gearbox i had the same problem with mine but it was a manual as soon as it got to 4 rpm it would go straight to redline without me moving and it was because the clutch was worn and it was slipping have it checked by a mechanic

  • 2 weeks later...

i have the same problem with my car. Its a 92' r32 GTS RB20DE auto. Did u find out th eproblem and how to fix it? very keen on the solution, as i am a Noob. it is my first car, and its been this way since i got it.

although a bit of an increase in power as the engine warms up.

Also, there seems to be a new engine noise which has just recently come up. somewhere between 2-3000rpm theres a vibrating noise, which sounds like somethings loose.

Any tips on what it is or what i should do? mind you i am a Noob.

  • 3 weeks later...

I have taken it to a few mechanics but unfortunatly have had no luck. No one seems to know what the hell is goin on. Its got nothing to to with the gearbox, apparently, i thought it may be the coils, but its not them, the next thing thats gonna be looked at is the cat to see if its blocked or not. Either way i'll keep you guys posted. If any body out there knows of a good mechanic who knows what they are on about with skylines and are in melbourne, could you please let me know.

Cheers,

Antony

PS. Anut, my car is exactly the same, increases in power as it warms up, sometimes it even goes back to being normal, but as soon as it gets cold, it starts all over again, and i do get that same noise around that rev range. I am trying to get to the bottom of this.

ill have the afm checked out, but i was told that if it was the afm, there would be heaps of smoke coming out of the exhuast, as for the fuel, its using heaps more, im pushing it if i can get somewhere between 250 & 300 kms from a tank using optimax. I would normally get somewhere between 450 & 500 kms

i have the same problem with my car. Its a 92' r32 GTS RB20DE auto. Did u find out th eproblem and how to fix it? very keen on the solution, as i am a Noob. it is my first car, and its been this way since i got it.

although a bit of an increase in power as the engine warms up.

Also, there seems to be a new engine noise which has just recently come up. somewhere between 2-3000rpm theres a vibrating noise, which sounds like somethings loose.

Any tips on what it is or what i should do? mind you i am a Noob.

Does yours make like a loud sucking noise at cold start between 2000-3000rpm BOTH when accelarating and just after when stepping off the gas? Mine does this and i've got the stock air filter and air box still, no pods (i know pod does this). And it stops doing it after the car is warmed up like at normal temp. Can there be an AFM problem, like its on its way out?

nismo_GTS keep us posted wat happen to urs ok.

Cheers

Mine makes that noise but i have a pod, i have managed to book the car in for monday, the mechanic reckons he's gonna need the whole day to find out whats wrong, we'll see how we go. I'll let you guys know whats goin on whatever happens.

Cheers.

The exhaust will make a snappy vibrating noise in N/A's and it has been layed down to a charicteristic of the engine, something along the lines of the cams, should be most prominaent around 2500-2900ish.

I had a problem with mine a little while back where the engine would cut out and react like it was hitting redline fuel cut, but would do it as low as 3500rpm, esp the hotter the engine became, this turned out to be the exhaust cam sensor. Which is a mitsubishi part (Mitsu sabotage!!) i wasnt happy because the very same time it stop working, was the same time my car was sitting on the dyno, i was very pissed off. My car hit top of 96kw @ wheels, but due to the sensor cutting out at 4000rpm, and anyone with an N/A knows this is where the real power only starts to build up, i had another good 2500-2800 rpm left to pump out my power figure, i was not a happy boy.

Mine makes that noise but i have a pod, i have managed to book the car in for monday, the mechanic reckons he's gonna need the whole day to find out whats wrong, we'll see how we go. I'll let you guys know whats goin on whatever happens.

Cheers.

Hay man did u find out wat the problem is?

:D

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys. This is becoming really frustrating. The last guy i took it to doesnt have any idea whats goin on. He suspected that it might be the cat thats blocked but after putting it up on the hoist and checking out the temperature difference from one side of the cat to the other wich was only a few degrees, he said its in good nick. I am convinced that is something to do with the exhaust. Im going to change the cat anyway on the weekend and clean the pod out.

Cheers

P.s I really appreciate all the tips you guys have been giving me so far, thanks guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...