Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Not sure if this is the right forum but i couldnt see electricals anywhere.

The problem is the earth wire at the relay isnt getting current. All the other wires are getting current. The other day the earth wire was getting a low amount but the car wouldnt start.i did manage to start it by grounding with a screwdriver. But now that wont work as the earth wire isnt getting any current at all. The fuse is good and i swapped the relay but it still wouldnt start. When i turn the key in the ignition the fuel pump continues to run until i take the key out. Its running but i dont think theres any pressure to deliver fuel to the engine. The fuel pump is fine its just the relay. Any help would be much appreciated.

Edited by alexboland
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463017-r33-fuel-pump-relay-issues/
Share on other sites

I think you should check out the factory wiring first.

The relay has 12V+ constant feed once the IGN is switched on and the grounding of pin 18 at the ecu is what controls the pump.

The high/low speed side of the system works the negative side of the pump.

Full speed has the negative direct to ground.

Low speed has the negative to ground via a resistor.

If you want the pump to run at full speed all the time you simply ground the negative and job done.

If your pump continues to run after the normal 5 second time out, then the wire from Pin18 to the relay could be rubbed through somewhere to ground.

OR the fuel pump control section of the ecu may be faulty.

OR the relay may have melted its contacts together.

All easy stuff to check.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...