Current R32 Gtr Self Mapping...

[dave5678]

Here is my current map. I am running stock turbos, HKS intakes, decat, HKS Hipower, and power fc. I had boost set to 1.0 kg cm^2 but I didn't reach it because the duty cycle wasn't set high enough. I hit .90. I now have it at 1.1 and lowered some timings and I also added AEM's water methanol kit with the 500cc nozzle. I will soon be doing a 3rd gear pull with my 35% methanol and 65% water mix. If anyone has suggestions they are greatly appreciated even if it's get your ass to a real tuner, haha!

Thanks!

-Dave

Edited February 25, 2016 by dave5678

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Should output it to virtual dyno and work out where max torque is. Then once you're able to determine where max torque is you can started ramping the timing up towards the top.

Because you're running water/meth with those timing figures, you'll fine

Hard to purely say from timing numbers without a few dyno runs to determine the finer detail.

[dave5678]

Thanks Johnny! I will be sure to do it tonight with some new logs with meth spraying. Planned on checking out the Wangan/Tatsumi Parking area as well as getting some pictures. Should be good times.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

From my experience, say if a car takes x amount of timing on 98RON - on E85 or similar water/meth that particular load point at y rpm will take 4~5 degrees more timing and make more power and torque.

But very hard to say in your situation without a dyno.

I usually start with a flat timing map then add timing till I start to see less power gains throughout the RPM range, then I determine where max torque is achieved and where it starts to heavily decay. This is where timing can be added (from where the torque decays) and then same thing, see if the motor will take timing at that point onwards.

Usually if 1x degree of extra timing makes less than 5kW of power it's pretty much a sign to stop adding timing.

Take whatever I say as only information, every motor, every fuel combination, every tuner etc.. is different. Also a good way to preserve motors is to run it richer at peak torque. The cars I tune (mostly for friends) run about 11.5 AFR at peak torque then lean up to about 12afr all the way to redline (that's E85 converted to Gasoline scaling).

[dave5678]

Appreciate the advice. When I get some money saved up I will go to the local turner down the street that has the dyno. He mostly does rotaries but all the Silvia and GTR guys have been going there as well and aren't complaining. Like to do what I can on my own until then even though I know I need to take it there.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I find that RBs don't like too much timing and generally "flat" because of the torque output of the motor is quite "flat" (a good thing).

For example (rpm vs. timing) on 98:

4000 - 20

4400 - 20

4800 - 20

5200 - 21

5600 - 21

6000 - 22

6400 - 22

6800 - 23

and so on...

however on E85 or water meth you can throw a few more up top to give it a more of a ramp

4000 - 23

4400 - 23

4800 - 23

5200 - 24

5600 - 24

6000 - 25

6400 - 26

6800 - 28

(those are arbitrary numbers I've made up, please don't use them)

[dave5678]

hehe I won't. Also I'm an idiot and didn't have laptop charging so no logs in copilot or fcedit. I did do one lap on the c1 and used a gallon of meth.

Edited February 26, 2016 by dave5678