Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25det 180sx regretful sale. PRICE DROP

Car/Body

BLACK 1992 180sx

Rear spoiler remover

Vented bonnet scoop

NISMO front lip

Dark tint on windows

16/8 white P1 rims with 225/50/16 tiers near new tiers

10 months reg

The car comes with RWC and totally engineered to Australian VIC standards and EPA tested.

Inside/accessories

4 stage AXAS shift light

MOMO sports steering wheel

Phantom, auto meter boost gauge (white faced)

Top secret 400ps over shift knob

Black and grey AEUROTECH recline-able race seat

5 point SARBELT TRW harness

G-readdy programmable digital turbo timer

HORNET alarm and 5 point emob

Sterio

JVC KW-XC777 double din head unit with remote

ALPINE 6” splits

PHILIPS tweeters

PIONEER 3 way 6x9’s

SONY EXM502 2 channel amp

Entire interior is in very mint condition, and the stereo is in perfect working order and sound great.

Breaks/suspension/handling

(all has just been fit in that last 3 weeks)

Custom adjustable coil-overs all round (designed to counter the extra weight of the rb25)

Front radius bush replacement kit

Custom front sway bar – adjustable

Rear sway bar bush upgrade kit

Nolathane rear sub-frame mounting bushes

Lowering of control-arms

Custom 1” double bar front sway bar

Custom 1” single bar rear sway bar

R33, 4 piston front calipers

Green stuff pads

DBA vented 31mm rotors

Rear breaks are stock in good condition with good metal king pads ( o have a set of 300zx calipers and slotted DBA rotors not fitted yet)

All this means is a car that handles very very well, you wouldn’t know there was RB in the front. But came at a cost of over $4500 (I have receipts for everything)

Engine

RB25det conversion and box (the engine was stripped down and tested be for being put in)

5puk daiken extreme clutch (in very good condition)

VG30 roller bearing turbo

Huge custom front mount intercooler and piping

K&N pod filter

3” exhaust right through

3” magna-flow muffler

Hi-flow cat

Bleed valve

The engine bay has been kept to make the engine and components look stock as possible so when the cops lift the hood they don’t have any shinny things to look at.

At the moment the car is making just over 200rwkw at 10psi (I have dyno sheet), making it a very reliable tune. But if that’s not enough for you all it need is a set of 480cc injectors and hi-flow the turbo if you want to make more like 280 - 300rwkw.

The car is very fast and handles like a dream, if it where up to me I would not even think about selling the car.

I am looking for 20,000ono, I will listen to any reasonable offers.

Because the car has this amount of power test drives will not be permitted until the buyer has laid down a deposit. And please no dreamers or tier kickers please.

If anyone has any further question, or would like to enquire about purchasing the car you can PM me or e-mail me at [email protected] or call me any time on 0402375701.

Regards, Jonathan PRICE DROP - NOW $18,500

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46325-rb25det-180sx-heavily-modified/
Share on other sites

i have a n14 pulsar with gtir conversion,fmic,200kw atw+,gtir bar and custom sideskirts,2stage boostcontroller - not hooked up, blitz bov and boost guage with a 3inch zorst..........

pic at www.turbopulsar.com - are you interested in something like this ???

i have a n14 pulsar with gtir conversion,fmic,200kw atw+,gtir bar and custom sideskirts,2stage boostcontroller - not hooked up, blitz bov and boost guage with a 3inch zorst..........

pic at www.turbopulsar.com - are you interested in something like this ???

Sorry buddy, i am after money. if you can sell your car and get the money i would be glad to show you the car and take you for a ride.

thanks, jonathan

hey guys,

i have been thinking and because i havent sold the car yet, maybe people dont want to spend this much. so how about this =

I will sell it for 16,000 whitout-

rego (will not make a diff for the interstate buyers)

wheels (i will sulpy some miss matched rims 16/8"

6x9's and head unit, (so you are left with splits and tweeters) negsteering wheel

racing seat

strut brace front and rear, neg

any questions just give me a buzz.

but sayin u will sell it for 16, with out rego wheels seats stuts

by the time we get rego there is 600, new set of wheels 1g at least...so that just bumps it back up to 18....... i got a 18o with shit loads of mods and a full add rebuild for sale if u wanna pm me ill give u more details...its a sr by the way :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...