Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its been discussed before, so lets try to clear it up. can rb26 cams work in an rb25? what would need to be done?

i think they would, it is just a matter of using the rb26 cam gears, solid lifters and disabling the vvt solenoid. would using gt-r cams help make significantly more power down low because you've eliminating the vvt (and the design of the gt-r cams themselves obviously)? would this setup also work with a powerfc and give a better tune without the vvt?

how would you set the cam gears. retard 4 on ex. and adv. 2 on in? also, if using solid lifters does this allow a higher redline, say 7500 - 8000rpm. alot more oil may also be held in the head using solid lifters i am told aswell, is this true?

what do you guys think?

-rb25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46326-rb26-cams-into-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

its been discussed before, so lets try to clear it up.  

1. can rb26 cams work in an rb25?

2. what would need to be done?

3. is just a matter of using the rb26 cam gears

4. solid lifters

5. disabling the vvt solenoid

6. would using gt-r cams help make significantly more power down low because you've eliminating the vvt (and the design of the gt-r cams themselves obviously)

7. would this setup also work with a powerfc

8. give a better tune without the vvt?

9. how would you set the cam gears. retard 4 on ex. and adv. 2 on in?

10. also, if using solid lifters does this allow a higher redline, say 7500 - 8000rpm.

11. alot more oil may also be held in the head using solid lifters i am told aswell, is this true?

what do you guys think?

-rb25

Suggestions follow...

1. yes

2. remove rb25 cams, put in rb26 cams

3. yes on the inlet, RB25 pulley is OK on the exhaust

4. not necessary

5. yes

6. no, less power down low, that's what VVT is for (plus emmisions of course)

7. yes

8. no

9. that's a good place to start

10. not really, it may allow the engine to stay at higher rpm longer. But the other parts of the engine may suffer as a result.

11. no

Hope that helps :)

So to do this all you need are the rb26 cams and rb26 intake cam gear (i got a hks ex gear)?

Is it a worthwhile upgrade? and what kind of power can be expected from doing this?

Depends on what else you have done, how good the tuner is and what sort of condition your engine is in. Never actually stuck a set of GTR cams in an RB25DET, but going on the RB20DET improvement from the same upgrade, I would reckon on 20 to 25 rwkw if all the above is good. :)

Thanks for your reply SK. I have been doing some searching and i havent been able to find anyone that has done this on a rb25 before.....

If a set of GTR cams can be had for $250-$300 and ill be generous and say $400-$500 for a install and tune why havent more people done it if theres a 20-25kw increase to be had? It seems like a good kw to $$ upgrade to me.

id be interested to hear anyones results

Cheers

Matt

Thanks for your reply SK. I have been doing some searching and i havent been able to find anyone that has done this on a rb25 before.....

If a set of GTR cams can be had for $250-$300 and ill be generous and say $400-$500 for a install and tune why havent more people done it if theres a 20-25kw increase to be had? It seems like a good kw to $$ upgrade to me.

id be interested to hear anyones results

Cheers

Matt

:D

  • 2 weeks later...

another question that comes to mind is about the gt-r cam lobe ramp-up, is it sharper than the gts-t hydraulic cam (its a higher lift so it has to be sharper somewhat)? would the sharper and higher lift flog out the hydraulic lifters?

ive decided to give this mod a miss and just get some tomei's cams that'll just drop in no ginning around.

-rb25

Steve, without the cams and gears in front of me I'm puzzled. Does the GTR inlet cam have a different attachment for the gear?

RB25, the cam theory will be pretty mush the same for any high lift cam. Greater acceleration of the valves and springs, and I believe the Tomei's are higher lift and similar duration to the GTR cams, so will be more aggressive with the lifters. SK has been pretty detailed in the RB26 into RB20 thread if you take a look.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...