Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Plugs & Heat Rateings

GEE TEE ARE DIRTY 3
 Share

Recommended Posts

GEE TEE ARE DIRTY 3 Newbie

GEE TEE ARE DIRTY 3

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum, but have had my R33 GTR for around 8 years now.

Been down the same track as most of us have gone down. More boost, gasket fail and a rebuild with all the norm goodies, forge pistons new Tommie water pump and water pump, extended sump GTSS = 330KW ATW.

I was always one to change my own oil, change plugs and alike. Don't get me wrong I am no a grade mechanic but happy to keep cost down and a bit of hands on is always good.

Anyway, along the road I have come across a few tuners/workshops that would like to take on all the aspects of the car.

I got my car serviced and ready to take it way for the weekend and a good thump out of town. As soon as I put my foot into the car it started missing. I thought plugs, but it was not that long ago that I had them changed. I remembered that I had a set of plugs in the draw from when my car was running 260kw with stock turbos. I remember when I had the car original tuned seven years ago the tuner advised that a BCPR6ES was OK for my car on the street but I would need a BCPR7ES if I was to add more boost.

I found the plugs BCPR6ES so I started taking all the plugs out & they did not look to bad. At a closer inspection they were a part number that I did not recognize BKR6E. I put my plugs in and the car is running fine.

Sorry for elaborating for so long, my question is,

BCPR6ES is ok at low boost due to heat rating?

BCPR7ES high boost, track due to heat rating?

BKR6E is for a RB25 not a RB26?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463505-rb26-plugs-heat-rateings/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • feartherb26
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By feartherb26 · Posted

      If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...