Jump to content
SAU Community

Vq30dd

4ventador

By 4ventador,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

4ventador Newbie

4ventador

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello everyone

so i just got a Nissan Cedric Y34, and its got the VQ30DD engine in it, can i be enlightened with how i can turbocharge this engine (available turbo kits, hassle, etc) I am in Canada, and also id like to know how much this process should cost, how much power i can expect to get, etc :)

Edited by 4ventador
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463595-vq30dd/
Share on other sites
Leroy Peterson Grand Master

Leroy Peterson

Posted
Posted

Someone I know in New Zealand went through all this but his turbo kit was remains of a half-cut from a turbo Y34. There is no aftermarket turbo kit for Y34 (highly unlikely there would be one available in Japan).

The russians have a forum on Nissans that may be useful. http://forums.drom.ru/nissan-cedric-gloria-cima/

If you want to spend money on parts you'll have to browse endlessly on Yahoo Auctions. There are some nice bits second-hand you just have to be patient sometimes. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Flist1.auctions.yahoo.co.jp%2Fjp%2F%25E3%2583%2591%25E3%2583%25BC%25E3%2583%2584-%25E8%2587%25AA%25E5%258B%2595%25E8%25BB%258A-%25E3%2582%25AA%25E3%2583%25BC%25E3%2583%2588%25E3%2583%2590%25E3%2582%25A4%2F26322-category.html

Even if you decided to run your current injectors and ECU, you would still need to source the exhaust manifold, fit an intercooler, all the related intake piping, turbo dump pipe, probably a full exhaust. And there is no guarantee the engine would run well on DD injectors and ECU. There may also be issues with how many oxygen sensors the ECU monitors as well.

In summary, its not worth the hassle or the money. Should have thought about this before you bought the car. Some stageas have the VQ30DD and VQ25DD, theyre not identical to the Y34 engines but there should be enough info on SAU to give you some ideas of what mods you can do for performance.

Personally, I would do preventative maintenance on the car since you just got it (presumably from Japan). My car gained a lot from just changing spark plugs and coilpacks. A full exhaust system would be good, you could fit a shift kit, throw a Z33 LSD into the diff, inspect/clean the intake plenum because its going to be full of shit (theres a thread on SAU about cleaning the intake, but I cant find it)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463595-vq30dd/#findComment-7697393
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...