Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is my 1998 model pearl white r34 GTT sedan. The car was a bone stock automatic r34 up until 190,xxxkms and recently converted to manual (3000kms ago). Don’t be fooled by the kms, the engine and suspension bushes are still in good condition and pulls extremely well for 10psi. It has served me well but looking for of a change. All electronics work, aircon is icy cold, interior is in great condition and is extremely comfortable to drive. It is starting to get hard to find an r34 sedan that is turbo and manual. Non turbo auto sedans go for 12-14k on carsales

Engine:
Stock rb25det neo running 10psi
Blitz return flow front mount intercooler
3” bellmouth dump and front pipe
3” high flow cat
3.5” Apexi catback
Splitfire coilpacks
3A racing pod filter
HKS boost controller
HKS turbo timer

Suspension and brakes:
Cusco brake booster
Nismo shock and spring combo with damper adjustability, comfortable ride
Front strut bar

Interior & exterior:
Nismo gearknob
18” CST hyper zero concave with good tyres all round
OEM side skirts
OEM rear pods
OEM skyline floor mats front and rear
Xenon headlights
Alpine headunit
Aftermarket immobilizer

When the car was purchased, it was 100% stock and automatic for 190,xxxkms. It has only been manual for 3000kms and has had an easy life. The manual conversion was only performed in December, 2015 (with proof), using a full healthy rb25det manual conversion.

Will straight swap or a little cash either way depending on condition for an s2000, evo 7 or 8, jzx100, chaser or an s15.

No test drives will be allowed unless the price or swap has been agreed upon and I see genuine interest.

Please dont waste your or my time.

$14500, ono. As I said before, will happily keep it if it doesn’t sell.

0415 447 759

Cheers

post-142005-0-87887400-1461922604_thumb.jpg

post-142005-0-70030300-1461922683_thumb.jpg

post-142005-0-75226100-1461922641_thumb.jpg

post-142005-0-85090800-1461922743_thumb.jpg

post-142005-0-95479300-1461922797_thumb.jpg

post-142005-0-37576700-1461922851_thumb.jpg

post-142005-0-25769600-1461922903_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...